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VOLUME 15 JULY
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
A Sand Feeder Beach for Use in Laboratory Littoral
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Foreign Coastal Engineering and Related Research .
Soviet Scientific Progress in Coastal Oceanography
New Soviet Manual on Coastal Engineering . . . © e
Ice Plow Patterns Along the Delaware Coast . . . «
Transport
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Progress Reports on Research Sponsored by the Beach Erosion
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Beach Erosion Board Publications .....
Beach Erosion Studies ....e.c-ec-eceee
Summaries of Reports Transmitted to Congress:
San Diego County, California .. . . « e e
Amelia Island (Fernandina Beach), Florida ,
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Delaware Bay Coast of New Jersey ...coe
Lake Erie Shore from Ohio-Michigan State Line
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A SAND PEEDER FOR USE IN LABORATORY LITTORAL TRANSPORT STUDIBS
by
RUDOLPH P, SAVAGE
Research Division, Beach Erosion Board
A model layout shown in Figure 1 is typical for laboratory studies
involving the transportation of sand (littoral drift) along a beach,
Basically this layout consists of a baSin containing wave generators
aligned at an angle (30° in this case) to a sand beach, Located at the
downdrift end are sand traps (numbered 1-15) and accesSory equipment re-
quired to remove the sand from the traps and transport it to a weighing
station,
In operation, the wave generators produce waves which approach and
break on the sand beach at an angle to the general beach contours, In So
doing, these waves generate a current (the littoral current) which moves
alongshore away from the direction of wave approach, Both that sand placed
in suspension by the breaking waves and carried in the littoral current,
and that propelled directly over the bottom by the waves, is then moved
along the beach, At some line perpendicular to the beach, the moving sand
is trapped and transferred to a weighing station to be meaSured,
Since most littoral transport Studies are attempting to represent an
infinitely long straight beach, the trapped sand (or other comparable sand)
should be supplied to the updrift end of the beach in a manner which Simu-
lates the continuous supply of sand coming from an imaginary updrift beach
section, If too little or too much sand is supplied to the feeder beach,
the beach will erode or accrete and the angle between the beach and the
incoming waves will change, thus introducing an added variable to the study,
In exploratory tests at the Beach Erosion Board, it was found that the
problem of properly feeding the test beaches is rather complicated for two
principal reasons, First, the rate at which the sand must be supplied is
unknown and is not usually the same as the rate at which sand is being
trapped; and Second, the actual mechanical means of placing the sand con-
tinuously on the beach without interfering with the beach processes or
utilizing an exorbitant amount of hand labor were not available, However,
a satisfactory solution to the problem has been developed from an idea
given the author during a visit to the Coastal Engineering Laboratories of
the University of Denmark in Copenhagen,
The solution consists of a sand feeder which is shown in Figure 2,
The body of the feeder is a hollow metal cylinder supported by a metal
framework and three adjustable legs, An overflow trough 5-1/2 inches deep
fits around the outside of the cylinder, The bottom of this trough is 6
inches below the top of the cylindrical body and the trough is drained by
a 2-1/2 -inch hose,
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In use, the feeder is placed on the beach so that the seaward edge
of the bottom of the cylindrical body is 1 or 2 inches above the inter-
section of the still water line and the beach, The feeder can be leveled
and adjusted to the proper height with the adjustable legs (in this case,
the screw assembly from a Single post automobile bumper Jack), The supply
pipe or hose (see Pigure 2a) through which the sand-water slurry is carried
into the feeder goes into the open top of the feeder and discharges about
1 foot below the top of the feeder, The water overflow hose is arranged
to dispose of the overflow water at some point away from the feeder beach,
To start the feeder, about 1 foot of dry sand is placed in the feeder
body, Then a Sand=-water slurry is pumped into the feeder from the measur-
ing facility with an eductor*, The sand will settle into the bottom of the
feeder and the clear water will flow over the top and away from the feeder
through the overflow hose,
When the feeder has been filled to within about a foot of the top,
waves are started in the study area and they take sand from a cone-shaped
pile that slumps from the bottom of the feeder and move it along the beach,
As the sand is removed from the bottom of the feeder, more sand slides down
to the body of the feeder to replace the loss and a continuous feeding
operation is provided when the Sand-water slurry is pumped in continuously
during a test,
The feeding rate is essentially self-adjusting because the rate of
feeding is a function of the distance from the bottom of the feeder to the
general surface of the sand beach, Thus (see Figure 3) if the height of
the feeder bottom above the beach is large, a large amount of sand is fed =
or if the bottom of the feeder is buried, no sand is fed, Figure 3a repre=
sents an eroded condition of the beach which requires a large feeding rate,
Under such conditions, with a sizable distance between the bottom of the
feeder and the beach, a large feeding rate is provided by the feeder,
Figure 3b represents an approximately normal condition of the beach profile
requiring a normal feeding rate, If the feeder should oversupply the beach,
the condition shown in Figure 3c results and the sand supply is cut off,
Thus the location of the beach profile is held essentially constant by the
feeder,
In recent tests, a feeder the size of the one shown in Figure 2 has
supplied as little as 2,000 pounds and as much as 15,000 pounds of sand
per hour, Presumably, it could supply any lesser rate required; however,
a smaller feeder may give better results for very small rates = say less
than 100 pounds per hour, Por rates larger than 15,000 pounds per hour,
a larger feeder or two feeders would probably give better results than a
Single feeder of the size shown,
* See Savage, R, P. “Laboratory Study of the Effect of Groins on the
Rate of Littoral Transport: Equipment Development and Initial Tests",
Tech, Memo, No, 114, Beach Erosion Board, June 1959,
Much Sand Fed Little Sand Fed
(eroded beach condition) (normal condition)
a. b.
No Sand Fed
(beach oversupplied)
Cc.
FIGURE 3. CONTROL OF SAND FEEDING RATE BY
THE BEACH PROFILE ADJUSTMENT
The best location and height of the feeder are probably functions of
the feeder size and the particle sizes of the sand used, Actually only a
feeder of the size shown in Figure 2, using sand of 0,2<mm, median diameter,
has been used in tests at the Beach Erosion Board, Other feeder and sand
sizes may require Some experimentation to achieve satisfactory results,
FOREIGN COASTAL ENGINEERING AND RELATED RBSEARCH*
by
John R, Vogler, Chief
International Division, Beach Erosion Board
During the past few years there has been a significant increase
throughout the world in the total effort being devoted to the study of
coastal processes, forces, and phenomena, and the related engineering
application of the scientific findings, In addition, there has been a
corresponding increase in the number of foreign periodicals and special
publications pertaining to this field,
In the interest of economy of United States resources (manpower,
equipment, and money) and the over-all advancement of world-wide basic
knowledge in this discipline, it is necessary that increased use be made
of all related foreign data, The critical phase is the exploitation of
information in the various foreign languages, No longer should we be
satisfied with limiting our search for information primarily to English
language publications or available translations of foreign language
articles, It will not be an easy task to develop capabilities to re-
view foreign language publications to the extent deemed desirable due
to two factors: first, the ever increasing rate that technical papers
are being published; and secondly, the scarcity in the United States of
professional personnel capable of using foreign languages, However,
over a period of time a coordinated attack on the language problem by
all concerned may eliminate most of the noted reference research
deficiency,
To overcome at least part of this deficiency of knowledge, the
International Division, Beach Erosion Board, is responsible for analyz-
ing foreign activities and information that may be useful to the coastal
engineering and related research* effort of the Beach Erosion Board and
the other elements of the Corps of Engineers, When possible, interesting
information of a general and technical nature will be made available to
all interested agencies and personnel via Beach Erosion Board Bulletins,
Technical Memoranda, or such other media as may be deemed appropriate.
The first such release is a general information article in this Bulletin
entitled “Soviet Scientific Progress in Coastal Oceanography". Descrip-
tion of a new Soviet manual on coastal engineering is also included in
this Bulletin as a separate release,
It is hoped that the Beach Erosion Board will develop as a primary
focal point in the U. S. Government for foreign information in the field
of coastal engineering and related research, To further this objective
* Coastal engineering and related research includes: the collection
of basic information on coastal environment, processes, forces, and
phenomena; the performance of basic and applied research in this field;
and the development of engineering data and design criteria for pro=
tecting the coastal environment against coastal processes and forces,
it would be appreciated if U. S. authors would furnish the Beach Erosion
Board pertinent bibligraphical data of their periodical articles or
special reports pertaining to foreign coastal research and engineering,
Even better would be the receipt of a copy of the article or report for
inclusion in that Board*s Library, At a later date it is proposed to
make a survey of holdings of United States agencies for information on
foreign coaStal engineering and related research, Foreign publications
received at the Beach Erosion Board, as well as Special reports by the
International Division or other agencies on foreign activities, accom-
plishments, or environments, will be made a permanent part of the Board's
Library, available for use by research personnel,
The Beach Erosion Board looks forward to a more complete understand-
ing of the accomplishments of our fellow scientists and engineers in all
countries of the world, especially in the investigation of coastal pro-
cesses, forces, and phenomena and the engineering application of their
findings, Although the current capability of the Beach Erosion Board to
handle foreign language data is limited, every effort is being made to
improve that capability.
SOVIET SCIENTIFIC PROGRESS IN COASTAL OCEANOGRAPHY
by
Otakar W, Kabelac
International Division, Beach Erosion Board
SOVIET EFFORT FOR INTERNATIONAL COOPERATION IN COASTAL INVESTIGATIONS
At the Twelfth Assembly of the International Union of Geodesy and
Geophysics (IUGG), held in Helsinki, Finland, in August 1960, the Soviets
proposed the establishment of a special committee within the framework of
the International Association of Physical Oceanography (IAPO), a subdivi-
sion of IUGG, for the study of dynamics of shores and coastal zones, The
leading Soviet oceanographers V, P, Zenkovich and V, N, Longinov, authors
of the proposal, consider the present methods and means of oceanographic
studies of coastal processes, now carried on separately by individual
countries, inadequate for the advancement of knowledge of phenomena occur-=
ring in the shore zone, They consider the general processes occurring in
any shore zone to be subordinated to the same laws of geophysics, which
cannot be scientifically investigated without international coordination
and mutual use of achievement of different countries,
The Soviet proposal for the establishment of a special committee of
IAPO, outlined the following objectives:
1) collection and distribution of information on investigations and
methods used in various countries;
2) preparation of a program for a sympoSium to be held at the next
IUGG meeting;
3) preparation of a program of studies in nature and model labora-
tories within the symposium mentioned under 2);
4) standardization of international terminology for coastal zone
studies;
5) coordination of studies carried out in different countries,
exchange of information, also arrangement for consultation of competent
specialists;
6) publication of material of the Committee in a special bulletin;
and
7) organization of a symposion for IUGG Assembly in 1967-68, in
which the results should be discussed and future programs elaborated,
The Soviet proposal is supplemented by a list of specific coastal
problems considered as the most important part of the program of shore
dynamics and shore zone investigations and which should be subjected to
international cooperation, These problems are:
a) transformation of wave movements in shallow zones and study of
wave velocities and their assymetry,
b) currents generated by waves and other currents in the shore zone,
c) mechanism of moving and shifting of debris of different sizes,
d) establishment of bottom equilibrium profile,
e) study of migration of debris along the shore and of physical
parameters of debris streams,
f) formation of embankments and straightening of shores,
g) laws of the shore zone development as a part of general geo-
physical picture of lithosphere evolution, and
h) physical processes in the shore zone as part of the total energy
balance of the earth*’s surface,
The acceptance of the Soviet proposal in Helsinki by IAPO, and
appointment of V, P, Zenkovich to chairmanship of the Committee for the
Study of dynamics of shores and coastal zone, indicates a certain inter-
national recognition of recent achievements of Soviet coastal scientists
and oceanographers,
It is not as yet clear whether the Committee will be successful in
promoting the proposed international cooperation,
ORGANIZATION AND EXECUTION OP COASTAL RESEARCH IN U.S.S.R.
Soviet. entry into scientific investigations of shores and coastal
zones of oceans, seas, and lakes is of relatively recent origin, For
example, the publication of the works by V. P. Zenkovich in 1946 (90-92),
are comparable to that of the United States of 1919 - when the book by
D. W. Johnson: “Shore Processes and Shoreline Development” (13), was
published,
The effort of Soviet scientists, oceanographers, and engineers
specializing in coastal research since World War II, however, deserves
special attention, A group of individuals associated with Zenkovich,
among them, in particular N. N. Dzhunkovskiy (1,2), Y, G, Kachugin(15,16),
N. Y. Kondratyev (21-27), 0. K. Leontyev (33-40) , V. V. Longinov (44-59),
B, A, Pushkin (61-71), G, S, Solotaryev (77,78), and others, was able to
produce voluminous scientific and technical literature on the subject,
The German oceanographer, Griesseier (12) lists two hundred bibliographic
items (books, articles, papers, and others) published in U.S.S.R, between
1946 and 1958, dealing with coastal phenomena and their scientific in-
vestigations, The lack of knowledge of the Russian language, together
with difficulties encountered in obtaining the publications, accounts for
a very limited knowledge in the West of this Soviet progress,
In 1952, upon initiative of the Academy of Sciences, U.S.S.R. and
the leadership of V. P, Zenkovich (90-116) | the Soviets established at the
Presidium of Soviet Academy of Sciences, U.S,S.R. a central organization
with an overall planning and coordinating authority in the field of coastal
research under the name, The Shore Section of the Oceanographic Commission,
The execution of the scientific coastal research is entrusted to a great
variety of institutions throughout the U.S.S.R. which are divided into four
groups, The largest group is made up of institutions under the guidance of
The Academy of Sciences, U.S.S.R., such as Institute of Oceanotogy, Insti-
tute of Marine Hydrophysics, and others, The second largest group is
composed of government institutions, subordinated to the State Ministries
or All-Union central governmental agencies such as Central Scientific
Research Institute of the Maritime Fleet, subordinated to the Ministry of
the Maritime Fleet; State Oceanographic Institute, subordinated to the
Chief Directorate of the Hydrometeorological Service, The third group
comprises institutions of higher learning, universities, colleges, graduate
schools with advanced curricula in geophysics, geography, and hydrodynamics,
such as M, V, Lomonozov Moscow State University, The fourth group includes
regional institutions, associated with individual Soviet Republics such as
Institute of Hydrology and Hydrotechnics of the Academy of Sciences,
Ukranian $§, S, R, A great number of the institutions mentioned have ex-
perimental laboratories associated with them, The majority of them publish
regularly a record of their studies and investigations in the form of
transactions (Trudy), bulletin (Izvestiya), paper (Doklady); books and
periodicals, Outstanding among these are bulletin (Izvestiya) of the Aca-
demy of Sciences, U.S.S.R., the Geophysics and Geographic Series, "Trudy"
of Oceanologic Institute, "Trudy" of Sea Hydrophysical Institute, or
"Trudy" of Geographic Institute, U.S.S.R., “Okeanologia", and many others,
They indicate the existence of a broad movement for organization of coastal
research, equipped with facilities, served by an extensive staff of pro-
fessionals,
SOVIET COASTAL INVESTIGATIONS
The problems involved in the Soviet coastal investigations reflect the
influence of Russia*s basic geography, namely her limited access to the
ice-free oceans through Black and Baltic Seas toward the Atlantic, her long
shore lines on the Arctic and North Pacific Oceans which are influenced by
perma=-frost conditions and the closed-in Caspian and Aral Seas with limited
tidal conditions, all of which have no analogy elsewhere in the world, In
addition, the large inland reservoirs sometimes called “seas”, constructed
in the last 40 years in connection with the hydrotechnical program of the
U.S.S.R, present a coastal problem of specific nature, due to their areal
extent,
The Soviet Theory of Dynamics and Morphology of the Shores of Seas and
Lakes - As developed by V, P, Zenkovich and the school of oceanographers
associated with him, the theory considers the coastal zone, below and above
the sea level, as a genetic unit and the changes of the relief and struc-
ture of the shores as a result of energy moving from the center of the sea
basin to its periphery, The principal energetic elements — the waves and
currents after reaching the coastal region, generate the motion of materiais
on the sea bottom and the processes observed in the shore zone, According
to Zenkovich, the knowledge of hydrodynamics of the shore zone is very un-
‘Satisfactory, despite the experience in predicting the parameters of sea
waves, their refraction and diffraction, Their internal structure and the
mechanism of their action on the sea bottom is, however, very little known;
also the overall hydrodynamics of the coastal zone are -not convincingly
explored up to the present, Phenomena, such as breaking processes and
material-moving action of the waves, assymetry of the wave elements in the
proximity of the shore and floor leveling current which brakes the landward
movement while accelerating the seaward movement of the water, belong in
the category of unexplored processes, In addition, the theory of transition
from hydrodynamics to the dynamics of material movement in general use is
deficient due to difficulties experienced in laboratory model representation
being so far developed without substantiation by observations and measure-
ments under natural conditions, Extreme efforts are underway in U.S.S.R,
to perfect and amplify the theory of Zenkovich on the formation of accumu-
lative form of the shore and dynamic classification of these forms (53),
Behind the efforts for theoretical solution of coastal problems, the
main obvious purpose is to obtain a working basis for planning and mainten-
ance of maritime improvementS, Numerous papers and studies with particular
regard for measurements and observations, taken under natural conditions
have been published (45,49,58,59,96, 3-11),
Surveys and Studies of Soviet Seashores - The Soviets have made numer-
ous Surveys of their coastal areas, many of them of regional character, and
Studied in detail the related physical characteristics and natural phenomena,
These studies are on energy transformation by the movement of water masses,
deformation of waves, transport of material, changes of the physical relief
in the coastal zone resulting from erosion or accretion (17,18,32-34, 37,
39, 64, 89, 115), These studies contain camprehensive and detailed informa-
tion on the dynamics and morphology of shores of different seas of U.S.S.R,
Data from the surveys and studies are compiled in regional monographs used
in preparation of Survey of Seashores of U.S.S.R. (Kadastr Beregov Morei
8.S.8.R.),(36,105), The data are organized as follows:
a) brief introduction to the theory of dynamics and morphology of
seashores with attention given to the local peculiarities;
b) general characteristics of the basin, its shores and the adjoining
mainland - hydrometeorology, geology and geomorphology;
c) exploitation of the sea basin and its shore in the past, review
of historical monuments, documents, maps, and other material;
d) division of the shore into typical sectors and descriptions of
them according to b);
e) analysis of the dynamics and regime of these individual sectors
with a prognosis of their further development and estimation for their
exploitation; and
f) summary, conclusions, and maps,
The establishment of the survey of seasShores is considered of great economic
importance for the rational planning and developing of maritime construction
for coastal protection, harbors, and landing facilities and coastal engi-
neering in general,
Artificial Seas of U.S.S.R. - The construction of immense retention
reservoirs with dimensions comparable to those of largest natural inland
lakes, underway for the past 40 years within the hydrotechnical program of
Russia*s water resources, was initiated by the Great Volga Waterway
in 1926, As an example, Kuybyshev "Sea", an artificial storage reservoir
created by a multiple-purpose dam, raises the Volga stage by 24 m, at
Kuybyshev and extends for a distance of 500 km, (310 miles), It averages
40 to 60 km, (25 to 37 miles) in width and retains 38 cu, km. (31 million
acre-feet) of water, These artificial reservoir creations are subject to
coastal processes of their own and obey certain laws typical of them, An
important consideration in these reservoirs is the role played by wind waves
up to 3.5 m (12 feet) high, and their action on the shores, These phenomena
have become the subject of studies and investigations of experts in a vari-
ety of sciences (14-16, 18-22, 28, 29, 31, 41-43, 60-63, 68,69, 72,73, 75-79,
83-85), The changes in the shoreline of these reservoirs, in the course
of filling up, inhibit the planning and construction of industrial plants,
agricultural installations, and human settlements, as well as of piers,
harbors, railroad lines, and highways along the shore, The key to these
problems is to originate reliable methods for predicting the changes in the
shores during the filling-up process of the reservoir, The experience and
theory on the dynamics and morphology of seashores is of very little use,
because these changes include both the process of formation of the shore
slope during the reservoir filling and those during the operation of the
waterway and hydropower plant at various stages of flood, The concept of
uniformity in the process of formation of shore slope above and under the
water is the basis for the methods presently used for the reservoir con-
struction, The shore slope is considered a surface on which the destruc-
tion of the energy of waves attacking the shores takes place,
Siiting Processes in Harbors and Navigation Canals - Study of silting
is a very important part of Soviet coastal research with particular regard
for disintegration of shores along detrital and sandy coasts, Numerous
investigations are carried on, to establish reciprocal relations between
a variety of structures connected with maritime constructions, such as
breakwaters, moles, shore revetments, groins, and others (16,69), The
protective measures taken along detrital coasts of the Black Sea and sandy
shores of the Baltic Sea have been treated on the basis of the laws of
dynamics and morphology of shores (19,20,30)
Soviet Coastal Investigations of Sea Outlets of Large Rivers (Deltas) -
Considerable attention in U.S.S.R. is given to phenomena involved in coastal
areas penetrated by outlets of large rivers (deltas), Usually where suitable
for the construction of large harbors, a systematic observation is carried
out in these areas in connection with the inland waterways construction
program and for the purpose of maritime and coastal engineering, Voluminous
Scientific material on problems of dynamics and morphology of large river
deltas was evaluated and published, I. V. Samoilov, in his book “River
Outlets" (74), presents a survey and analysis of these problems, including
the description of deltas of major Russian rivers, The book also covers
deltas of major large rivers of the world.
Methods and Techniques of Soviet Coastal Research - The research methods
are not as yet developed as to indicate a definite standard, although an
attempt in this direction is noticeable, Most of the methods are described
in special studies, which deal with specific problems of dynamics and mor-=
phology of shores including lithological and mineralogical analysis of the
material (40,99,102,115), quantitative analysis (3,19,20,25,28,30,33,44,58) ,
and laboratory model presentation (30), Several of these methods have been
merged and supplemented in some cases with diver observations (81,82),
Electric and photographic methods are, however, gaining importance (42,48,
55-57, 76,87), Particularly well developed are methods of indicators, marked
debris, colored or activated sand (65-66),
CONCLUSIONS
The establishment of a central scientific authority in charge of in-
vestigations of shore zone processes organized as The Shore Section of the
Oceanographic Commission under the Presidium of the Academy of Sciences,
U.S.S.R. indicates the Soviet Government*s interest in coaStal problems of
engineering and construction, Emphasis is placed on economic and strategic
planning.
This central authority coordinates and directs the activities of a large
number of research institutions and agencies in all parts of U.S.S.R. These
institutions are abundantly endowed with equipment, including laboratories
and experimental and observation stations and are staffed with numerous
scientific and engineering personnel, The voluminous literature listed in
the bibliography, covering a great variety of subjects in the coastal field
was produced during the period 1946 to 1958, Since 1958, the volume of
publications in coastal research has increased at an accelerated rate,
The extent of Soviet scientific and technological activities in the
field of physical oceanography and coastal phenomena is formidable in itself,
The objective evaluation of these activities, by means of reviewing the
voluminous and growing RusSian professional literature, presents a most
difficult task, complicated by highly theoretical treatment applied in
research and studies, as well as by the terminology and language obstaties,
13
11.
12,
alsye
14,
B IBLIOGRA PHY
DZHUNKOVSKIY, N. N. The Effect of Wind-Created Waves on Hydrotechnical
Structures, Moscow--Leningrad, 1940.
--- The Moscow Institute for Construction Engineering, The Effect of
Waves on Structures Along the Seacoast, Sbornik Trudov, No, 20,
MISTI, Moscow, 1957,
EGOROV, BE. N. Observations relative to the Dynamics of Sand Reefs,
Trudy Instituta Okeanologii AN/SSSR, vol, 6, 1951,
--- Some Forms of Accumulative Shores Generated by Longitudinal Move-
ment of Sediment, Doklady AN/SSSR, vol. 80, No. 5, 1951.
--- The Influence of Wind on the Morphology of Sandy Shores, Izvestiya
AN/SSSR, Seriya Geogr., No. 3, 1952.
--- Pacts Observed About Spits Extending from Beaches, Trudy Instituta
Okeanologii AN/SSSR, vol, 7, 1953,
--- Importance of Aeolian Processes for the Dynamics of a Low-Lying
Coast of Accumulation, Trudy Instituta Okeanologii AN/SSSR,
vol, 7, 1953,
--- Some Characteristics of the Heavy Sea and Wave Currents within the
Zone of Submarine Reefs, Trudy Instituta Okeanologii AN/SSSR,
vol, 8, 1954,
--- Some Features of the Dynamics of a Low-Lying Accreted Coast, Trudy
Instituta Geografii AN/SSSR, vol. 68, 1956,
--- The Stability of the Contours of Dissected Seashores in the Case
of a Wave Resultant Perpendicular to the Shore, Trudy Instituta
Okeanologii AN/SSSR, vol. 21, 1957,
---; POPOV, B. A. A Cable Railway Installed for the Purpose of Studying
the Transportation of Sediments, Trudy Instituta Okeanologii AN/SSSR,
vol, 28, 1958,
GRIESSEIER, H. Organization and Execution of Research in the Soviet
Union, Acta Hydrophysica, vol. V, No, 1, Berlin, 1958,
JOHNSON, D. W. Shore Processes and Shoreline Development, New York,
1919,
KABELAC, Otakar W. Great Volga Waterway, Journal of the Waterways and
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--- The Problem of the Selection of Data for Calculation of the Trans-
formation of Banks of Dammed Rivers, Trudy Instituta VseGinGeo,
1953,
KASHIN, J. S. The Probable Types of Banks of the Zimlayansk Reservoir,
Izvestiya AN/SSSR, Seriya Geogr., No. 4, 1952,
--- Examination of the Pebbly Sediments at the Caucasion Coast of
the Black Sea Between the Gelendzhyk and Tuapso, Trudy Okeanogr,
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KNAPS, R, J. The Action and Application of Breakwaters as Protective
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KONDRATYEV, N. Y. The Protection of Sea Anchorages Against Wind-
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--- The Transformation of the Waves in Shallow Water at Gradually
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1950,
--- Losses of Wave Energy in Shallow Waters, Trudy Gos, Gidrolog,
Instituta, No. 28 (82), 1951,
--- Breaking-up of the Wave at Partial Refraction, Trudy Gos, Gidrolog,
Instituta, No, 35 (89), 1952,
--- Calculation of the Surf and the Transformation of the Banks of
Reservoirs, Leningrad, 1953,
--- Calculation of the Time of Transformation for Banks of Reservoirs,
Trudy Gos, Gidrolog, Instituta, No, 49 (103), 1955,
--- Prediction of the Transformation of the Banks of Reservoirs
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KRYLOV, J. M. The Problem of Diffusion of Waves on the Surface of
a Heavy Fluid of Varying Depth, Meteorologiya I Gidrologiya,
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--- Filtration in a Porous Soil Under the Influence of the Waves and
their Effect on Wave Elements, Trudy Gos, Okeanogr, Instituta,
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LEONTYEV, 0, K. The Evolution of the Shoreline of the North Dagestan
Coast of the Caspian Sea, Izvestiya Vsesojusnogo Geograficheskogo
Obschestva, vol, 83, No. 4, 1951.
Accumulative Ground Formations in the Shore Zone, Trudy Instituta
Okeanologii AN/SSSR, vol, 10, 1954,
Morphological Analysis as One of the Main Methods in the Study of
Dynamics of the Seashore, Vestnik Moskovskogo Gos, Universiteta,
No, 10, 1954,
The Geomorphology of Seashores and of the Soil, Moscow, 1955,
Shores Dried by the Wind as a Special Type of Genetic Shore,
Izvestiya AN/SSSR, Seriya Geogr., No. 5, 1956.
The Scientific Terminology of Seashores, Trudy Okeanogr, Komissii,
Vol, 1, 1956,
Some Peculiarities of the Dynamics and the Morphology of the Shore
Zone of the Northwest Coast of the Caspian Sea, Trudy Okeanogr,
Komissii, vol, 2, 1957,
MOROSHKINA, T. N. The Origin of the Material on the Agrachan
Peninsula, Izvestiya AN/SSSR, Seriya Geogr. I. Geofis., No. 4,
1949,
LEVCHENKO, S. P. The System of Waves of the Rybinsk Reservoir Accord-
ing to Observations taken in 1942 and 43, Trudy Morskogo Gidro-
fisicheskogo Instituta, vol, 2, 1949,
An Electro-Contact Wave Recorder, Meteorologiya {I Gidrologiya,
No, 5, 1954,
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Shore, on the Incline of the Floor, Izvestiya AN/SSSR, Seriya
Geogr. I, Geofis., No. 4, 1948,
The Transformation of Beaches Along the North Caucasian Coast by
the Action of Storm Waves in August of the Year 1949, Priroda,
No. 7, 1950.
On the Role of Floor Compensating Currents During the Movement of
Material on the Shore-Submergent Slope, Izvestiya AN/SSSR, Seriya
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tuta Okeanologii AN/SSSR, No, 10, 1954,
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of the Shore, Trudy Instituta Okeanologii AN/SSSR, Vol. 10, 1954.
Laws Governing the Development of Pebbly Beaches, Trudy Instituta
Okeanologii AN/SSSR, vol, 10, 1954,
Some Problems as to Methods in the Study of Dynamics of the Shore
Zone, Trudy Instituta Okeanologii AN/SSSR, vol, 19, 1956,
The Possibility of a Direct Study of the Action of the Heavy Sea
Transporting Suspended Material, under Natural Conditions, Trudy
Okeanogr, KomisSii, vol, 1, 1956,
Standardization of the Manner of Designating the Directions in the
Shore Zone of the Sea, Trudy Okeanogr, Komissii, vol, 1, 1956,
The Basis and Problems of the Study of the Dynamics of Seashores,
Trudy Instituta Geografii AN/SSSR, vol. 68, 1956,
Some Observations of the Deformation of Waves in the Shore Area
Under Natural Conditions, Trudy Instituta Okeanologii AN/SSSR,
VOM eas LO Sil
Data Gathered While Observing the Horizontal Pressure of Waves in
the Bottom Layer of the Shore Zone under Natural Conditions, Trudy
Instituta Okeanologii AN/SSR, vol. 28, 1958,
An Experiment to Ascertain the Sediment Transporting Action of the
Heavy Sea with the Aid of Observation Data on the Transformation
of Waves in the Shore Zone, Trudy Instituta Okeanologii AN/SSSR,
vol, 28, 1958,
17
Dilee
58.
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---; KESTNER, A. P. The First Attempt to Use the VIK-2 Instrument
and an Electric Wave Recorder for the Study of the Swell in
Shallow Water, Trudy Instituta Okeanologii AN/SSSR, vol. 5, 1951.
---; LEONTYEV, The Problem of the Dynamics of the Profile of a
Pebblty Beach, Trudy Instituta Okeanologii AN/SSSR, vol. 6, 1951.
---; PASECHNIK, L. D. The Principal Laws Governing the Development
of the Profile of Pebbly Beaches, Trudy Instituta Okeanologii
AN/SSSR, vol. 7, 1953.
LUPINSKIY, M. I, Revetments of Stone on the Slopes of Earth Dams,
Gidrotechnicheskoe Stroitel'stvo, No. 5, 1952.
MAKKAVEAV, V. M, The Processes of Rise and Fall of Short Waves and
the Dependence Thereof on the Strike Length of the Wind, Trudy
Gos, Gidrolog, Instituta, No, 5, 1937,
--- Reckoning With the Wind Pactor and the Roughness of the Floor in
Connection with the Dynamics of Waves and Currents, Trudy Gos,
Gidrolog, Instituta, No. 28 (82), 1951,
MAR* IN, V. A. Wind-Created Waves in Lake-Like River Beds, Moscow, 1939,
MEDVEDEV, V. S. A Brief Outline of the Dynamics and Morphology of the
West Coast of the White Sea, Trudy Okeanogr, Komissii, vol, 2, 1957.
=---; AJBULATOV, N. A. The Use of “Marked" Sand in the Study of Trans-
portation of Marine Sediments, Izvestiya AN/SSSR, Seriya Geogr,
No. 4, 1956,
---; --- The Study of the Dynamics of a Sandy Low-Lying Coast with the
Aid of Luminiphores and/or cableways, Trudy Instituta Okeanographii
AN/SSSR, vol, 28, 1958.
PUSHKIN, B. A. A Floating Breakwater with Inclined Surface, Morskoy
Flot, No, 3, 1946,
--- The Study of the Dynamics of the Shore of Lake Lenin, Trudy Insti-
tuta Okeanologii AN/SSSR, vol, 10, 1954,
--- Problems in the Dynamics of the Banks of Reservoirs, Kiev, 1954,
--- Some Problems of the Reciprocal Action of the Heavy Sea and En-
Bankments of Hydrotechnical Structures and Shores, Trudy Kievskogo
Gidromeliorativnogo Instituta, No, 6, 1956,
71.
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of Coast Revetments of the Dniepr Type, Izvestiya Instituta Gidro-
logii I Gidrotechniki AN/SSSR, vol. 8, 1951, (XV).
ROSOVSKIY, L. B. The Transformation of Reservoir Shores During the
Ten-Year Period, Gidrotechnicheskoe Stroitalstvo, No, 2, 1954,
=--- The Use of the Method According to Analogies of Geological Engin-
eering for Forecasting the Transformation of Shores of Large
Reservoirs, Prazi Odes*kogo Dershavnogo Universitetu Im, I, I.
Mechnikova, vol, 147, Seriya Geologichnich Ta Geografichnich Nauk,
No. 4, 1957.
SAMOILOV, I, V. River Outlets, GOTHA, (German Translation from Russian)
1956,
SELYUK, E..M. Methods for Examining the Wave Regime of Lake-Like Basins,
Trudy Gos, Gidrolog, Instituta, No, 22 (76), 1950.
SHIVAGO, A, V. The Present Geomorphological Processes Along the Shores
of Lake Kubenskoe and the Sea of Rybinsk, Trudy Instituta Okeano-
logii AN/SSSR, vol, 10, 1954,
SOLOTARYEV, G. S. The Work of the Geological Faculty of the University
of MoScow in 1951 Relative to the Study of the Transformation of
Banks of Reservoirs (Theses of a Lecture), Trudy Instituta Okeano-
logii AN/SSSR, vol, 10, 1954,
=--- Studies of the Embankments of Reservoirs, From the Standpoint of
the Geological Engineer, and the Evaluation of Their Transformation,
Trudy Laboratorii Gidrogeolog. Problem Im., F. P, Savarenskogo,
vol, 12, 1955.
STAS', I. I, A Distance Pressure Gauge, Trudy Morskogo Gidrofisiches-
kogo Instituta, vol, 11, 1957,
STEERS, J. The Coastline of England and Wales, Cambridge University
Press, 1948,
SUBENKO, F. S. The Application of Air Photography in Studying the
Process of Relief Formation on the Ocean Floor, Sborik Statey
Laboratii Aerometodov AN/SSSR, Moscow-Leningrad, 1954,
--- The Problem of the Formation of Sand Reefs on the Ocean Floor,
Trudy Laboratorii Aerometodov AN/SSSR, vol 4, 1955,
VENDROV, S. L, The Crumbling of the Banks of the Tsimilyansk Reservoir,
Morskoy I Rechnoy Flot, No. 3, 1953,
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VENDROV, S, L, ‘The Change in the Relief of the Shore Zone of the
Tsimilyansk Reservoir, Morskoy I Rechnoy Flot, No. 5, 1953.
--- The Dynamics of the Shore Zone of the Tsimilyanski Reservoir,
Izvestiya AN/SSSR, Seriya Geogr., No. 5, 1955,
---; KOSMYANIZYN, M. N.; PEKICHEV, K. M. Observations of the De-
formation of the Banks of the Tsimilyansk Reservoir During the
Years of 1952 and 1953, Trudy Okeanogr, Komissii, vol, 1, 1956.
VERSHINSKIY, N. V. Modern Electric Apparatus for Testing the High
Sea, Trudy Instituta Okeanologii AN/SSSR, vol. 10, 1954,
---; KESTNER, A. P. Electric Coastal Wave Recorders, Trudy Okeanogr,
Komissii, vol, 1, 1956,
VLADIMIROV, A. T. Some Data on Velocity of Pebbles Transported Paral-
lel to the Shores, Trudy Instituta Okeanologii AN/SSSR, vol 7, 1953,
ZENKOVICH, V. P. New Information on the Theory of the Dynamics of
Seashores, Izvestiya Vsesojusnogo Geogr, Obschestva, vol, 78, Nos,
5 and 6, 1946,
--- The Problem of the Study of the Dynamics of Seashores, Trudy
Instituta Okeanologii AN/SSSR, vol, 1, 1946,
--- Dynamics and Morphology of Seashores, vol, 1, Wave Processes,
Moscow, 1946,
--- Indications of Crumbling at the Caucasia Shore of the Black Sea,
Voprosy Geografii, Sbornik 4, 1947,
--- Study of the Dynamics of Seashores, Trudy II - Go Vsesojuasnogo
Geogr, S*esda, vol. 2, 1948,
--- Methods for Determining Vertical Movements Relative to the Morpho-
logy of Shores, Trudy Sovaschaniya Po Metodam Isucheniya Dvisheniy
I Deformaziy Semnoj Kory, 1948,
--- Observations of the Formation of Spits of Land, Trudy Instituta
Okeanologii AN/SSSR, vol. 2, 1948,
--- Some Factors in the Formation of Ocean Terraces, Doklady AN/SSSR,
vol, 65, No, 1, 1949,
--- Methods of Examining Seashores,Contained in "Handbuch des Reisenden
und Landeskundilers" (Handbook of the Traveler and Explorer),vol, 2,
Moscow, 1950,
20
99,
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103,
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109,
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ZENKOVICH, V. P. The Seashore, Moscow, 1952,
--- The Evolution of Lagoons, Izvestiya Vesesojusnogo Geogr. Ob-
schestva, vol, 84, No. 5, 1952,
--- Two-Fold Coastal Bars and Landtongues, Priroda, No, 2, 1952,
--- On a Type of Accumulative Decaying Shore Formation, Izvestiya
Vsesojusnogo Geogr, Obschestva, vol. 85, No. 1, 1953.
--- The Effect of the Tides on the Elements of the Profile of a
Seacoast, Voprosy Geografii, Sbornik 36, 1954,
--- The Results and the Mission of the Study of Seashores, Trudy
Instituta Okeanologii AN/SSSR, vol, 10, 1954,
--- A Cadastral Survey of the Seashores of the U.S.S.R., Trudy
Instituta Okeanologii AN/SSSR, vol, 10, 1954,
--- A Dynamic Classification of Seashores, Trudy Instituta Okeano-
logii AN/SSSR, vol. 10, 1954,
--- Problems in the Study of Seashores, Vestnik, AN/SSSR, No. 4,
1956,
--- Streams of Sediments Along the Soviet Coast of the Black Sea,
Trudy Instituta Po Proektirovaniyu Morskich Portov I Sudoremont-
nych Predpriyatij, Sbornik 3, 1956,
--- Some Laws Governing the Development of the Shores of West Kam-
chatka, Trudy Okeanogr, KomisSii, vol, 1, 1956,
--- Study of the Seashores and the Main Tasks of the Section on
Shores of the Oceanographic Commission at the Presidium of the
Academy of Sciences of the U.S.S.R., Trudy Okeanogr. Komissii,
vol, 2, 1957.
--- The Structure of the Shores of the Southeastern Caspian Sea,
Trudy Okeanogr, Komissii, vol. 2, 1957,
--- New Work in the Field of the Study of the Dynamics of Seashores,
Meteorologiya I Gidrologiya, No, 10, 1957,
--- The Origin of Coastal Bars and Lagoon Shores, Trudy Institute
Okeanologii AN/SSSR, vol, 21, 1957,
--- The Methods of the Study of the Movements of Sediments in the
Ocean, Trudy Instituta Okeanologii AN/SSSR, vol, 28, 1958,
2l
115, ZENKOVICH, V. P. Transportation of Pebbles Along the Caucasian
Shore of the Black Sea, Meteorologiya I Gidrologiya AN/SSSR,
No. 5, 1949,
116, ---; EGOROV, E. N. Investigation of the Transport of Sandy Sediments,
Trudy Instituta Okeanologii AN/SSSR, vol, 21, 1957.
22
NEW SOVIET MANUAL ON COASTAL ENGINEERING*
The Soviet delegation to the XXth International Navigation Congress,
ce, Maryland, presented to the Beach Erosion Board a copy of their
aanual on coastal engineering, i.e., "Technical Instructions for
ning Effect of Waves on Maritime and River Constructions and
- Construction Norm 92-60", dated 21 April 1961, issued by the
committee on Structural Works, USSR Council of Ministers, Moscow,
This manual which apparently supersedes the All-Union State Standard
46 appears to be a partial equivalent of the Beach Erosion Board's
\ical Report No. 4, "Shore Protection Planning and Design", The Soviet
il of 132 pages (5 x 8 inches), 86 graphs and drawings, and 17 tables
livided into 7 chapters and 4 supplements (annexes), It presents a
‘t theoretical analysis of wave theory, practical application of con-
-tion norms to structures and shores, and examples of computation
vs, The titles of the seven chapters and four supplements (and
St.of pages involved) are:
General instructions and definitions. (5 pages)
S$. Determination of the parameters of wind waves.(27 pages)
al Determination of the effects of waves on types of structures
with vertical (or nearly vertical) walls, (19 pages)
IV Detemnination of the effects of waves on sloping structures.
(7 pages)
Vv Determination of the effects of waves on individual piles
and open-work construction, (19 pages)
VI Determination of the effects of waves on shore protection
construction, (8 pages)
VII Determination of the effects of wake waves on construction
protecting canal banks, (3 pages)
Annex I. = Tabie of approximate maximum fetches (in various
areas and reservoirs), (1 short table)
*This is the first announcement (in recent years) on foreign coastal
engineering publications considered of significant interest to the United
States coastal engineering and related research effort, The International
Division, Beach Erosion Board, as a part of its basic responsibility, will
continue to seek and report on this type of publication which may not be
readily available to U. S. personnel,
23
Annex II = Method of determining presSures of standing waves
on types of vertical walls, (8 pages)
Annex III = Determination of the changes taking place in the
parameters of wind waves as they enter partially
protected areas, (15 pages)
Annex IV - Determination of changes in reservoir shores,
(14 pages)
The manual, edited by Mr, Ye I, Dyshko, was compiled by the Inter-
departmental Committee on Wave Effect on Hydrotechnical Construction and
Shores, Academy of Sciences, USSR, It represents the joint effort of
numerous oceanographic, engineering, transportation, and scientific
agencies in the USSR with an interest in wave energy and the effects of
waves, The data in the manual are for the guidance of all Soviet engi-
neers engaged in work related to maritime and river construction and
shore protection,
A translation of the Soviet manual is being made by the Beach Erosion
Board and when completed will be available for study by interested person-
nel, In addition, the technical data will be analyzed and compared with
that in its own Technical Report No, 4,
24
ICE PLOW PATTERNS ALONG THE DELAWARE COAST
The following photographs, submitted by Mr, Joe S, Robinson, Assistant
Chief Engineer, Delaware State Highway Department, were taken on 7 February
1961, The drifting ice floes indicate some interesting flow patterns in
the nearshore zone of the Atlantic Ocean, The most striking eddy-type
formations were indicated just north of the jetties at Indian River Inlet
and in front of and adjacent to the groins at Rehoboth Beach, at which
locations some of the accompanying photographs were taken,
No attempt has been made to analyze or define the flow patterns, The
photographs are being presented merely as an item of pictorial interest to
the readers of the Bulletin,
In this area the predominant direction of littoral transport is north=
ward toward Cape Henlopen, A substantial quantity of beach fill was placed
on the shore north of Indian River Inlet in 1957, under a Federal-aid
project to protect the shores from the inlet to and including Rehoboth
Beach,
25
Photo 1 - Immediately North of Indian River Coast Guard Station
Photo 2 - Savage's Ditch - 1 1/2 miles north of Indian River Inlet
26
Photo 3 - Rehoboth Beach - between Henlopen Hotel and Rehoboth Avenue
SRA
Photo 4 = Rehoboth Beach at Rehoboth Avenue
27
Photo 5 = Rehoboth Beach = Henlopen Hotel
ss
Oil ae ere
Photo 6 = North of Rehoboth Beach - Cochran Groin
28
Photo 8 - Tip of Cape Henlopen - South Shore of Delaware Bay in background
29
PROGRESS REPORTS ON RESEARCH SPONSORED BY
THE BEACH EROSION BOARD
Compiled by Thorndike Saville, Jr., Research Division
Beach Erosion Board
Summaries of progress made during fiscal year 1961 (i.e. to June
30, 1961) on the several research contracts in force between universities
or other institutions and the Beach Brosion Board, together with brief
statements as to the status of some research projects being prosecuted
in the laboratory of the Beach Erosion Board, are presented below. These
Summaries supplement and continue those contained in prior issues of the
Bulletin,
1 University of California, Contract DA-49-055-eng-8, Sources of
Beach Sand,
Seasonal sampling of the eighteen beaches in the San Francisco area
was continued, The beaches between Russian River and the Oregon State
line were also occupied several times during the year, so that the three
critical times of the year (late summer, early winter, and late spring)
might be represented, Reports on this work are underway, A rather exten-
sive study was made of the feasibility of using the Frantz electro-dynamic
separator for segregating beach sands into different mineral groups on the
basis of their magnetic susceptibility, Both grain size and specific
gravity have also proved to be important factors, and accordingly fhe
development of proper techniques has been difficult, although considerable
progress has been made,
II, Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Contract DA-49-05S5eeng-16.
Sorting of Beach Sand by Waves.
A report “Equilibrium Characteristics of Sand Beaches in the Offshore
Zone" has been prepared (Technical Memorandum No, 126 of the Beach Eresion
Board), The report describes a theoretical and experimental investigation
of equilibrium profiles and sediment sorting in the offshore zone, designed
to test the applicability of existing idealized theories to the prediction
of equilibrium characteristics of laboratory sand beaches, Two different
sediment motion equilibrium criteria are considered; one in which the
moments on a stationary particle are at equilibrium and one in which the
particle is oscillating with no net motion, Results indicate existing
theories provide good quantitative prediction of the seaward limit of
profile modification and whether a given beach will build or erode under
action of a given incident wave, Quantitative prediction of profile shape
ig good only near the offshore extreme of profile modification, Sorting
experiments support qualitative theoretical predictions of increase in
size sorting in the onshore direction and tendency toward formation of
30
bi-modal size-frequency distributions, The contract has been extended to
study, both experimentally and analytically, the formation of littoral
currents along straight beaches, Initial experiments involve wave-induced
currents along a beach with a smooth impermeable 1 on 10 slope, The initial
work has been to establish experimental techniques to maintain uniformity
of flow along the test beach, and to measure satisfactorily wave height,
elevation of mean water surface, and current velocities and distribution,
III, University of California, Contract DA-49-055-eng-17, Fundamental
Mechanics of Sand Movement by Waves
A report "Sand Movement by Wind Action (on the Characteristics of
Sand Traps)" was published as Technical Memorandum No, 119 of the Board.
This report discusses the calibration of various types of sand traps in a
wind tunnel; efficiencies of these various traps have been checked and
compared with each other, As a resuit of the tests, a trap giving an
efficiency close to 100 percent has been developed, Some field tests were
made uSing this portable sand trap, during which the vertical velocity dis-
tribution was determined both with a bank of anemometers and a group of
Pitot tubes, A report describing these tests is being prepared. Under
that portion of the contract dealing with sand movement by waves, the model
tests .ith three-dimensional roughness were concluded, Analysis of the
data has shown that the velocity distributions are similar to those for
smooth surface and two-dimensional roughness, However, attempts to relate
the sediment transport rate to the shear stress obtained from integration
of the velocity profile have so far been unsuccessful, A new approach
Similar to that for unidirectional flow is now being considered, wherein
it is proposed to calculate the instantaneous lift force acting on the
individual grain, and establish criteria of stability depending on the
direction of the resultant of this force and the submerged weight of the
grain.
IV. University of California, Contract DA-49-055-eng-44, Laboratory
Study of Wave Refraction,
Ripple tank tests were completed on the refraction, reflection, and
energy disSipation characteristics of a solitary wave at oblique incidence
to an inclined beach, A report “Experimental Study on the Solitary Wave
Reflection Along a Straight Sloped Wall at Oblique Angle of Incidence" was
published as Technical Memorandum No, 124 of the Board, In these tests it
was found that curved ripples developed when incident waves hit a wall with
a slope less than approximately 65°. As the angle of incidence increased,
an envelope of these ripples formed and became large enough beyond a certain
angle of incidence, depending on slope, to look like a reflected wave but
remained curved as were the ripples, For a relatively steep wall slope,
larger than 65°, reflection was regular, but the angle of incidence at which
a straight reflected wave occurred depended on the slope of the wall, For
a wall with vertical or negative slope Mach reflection took place for wave
incidence angles between 30° and 35°, Mach reflection ceased and regular
3
ref lection occurred when the angle of incidence was 45°, This contract
also partially supported some work on non-linear wave theory in shallow
water, on which a report "Higher Approximation to Non-linear Water Waves
and the Limitimg Heights of Cnoidal, Solitary, and Stokes’ Waves" was pre-
pared and issued in limited distribution aS University of California IER
Report, Series 89, Issue 6, This report presents higher order approxima-
tions, and determines limiting conditions for waves of various form, For
example, the maximum limiting amplitude for the solitary wave is found to
be 8/11 of the free water depth, and it is shown that Stokes’ waves with
the largest amplitudes are restricted to wave lengths less than 8,15 times
the free water depth, Application of the theoretical results is also made
to formulate rather severe limitations upon the hydraulic analogy between
shallow water waves and isentropic perfect gas flow, Exploratory work in
the ripple tank on refraction of wind-generated waves was also carried out,
but considerable difficulty was observed in differentiating the effects of
refraction from generation effects in the generating area,
V. Agricultural and Mechanical College of Texas, Contracts DA-49-055-
eng-56-4, and 58-9, Estimation of Hurricane Surges,
Additional work was done on the research problem in Narragansett Bay
(eng-56-4), Detailed computations of the sequence of water level and flow
at various points and sections of the Narragansett Bay region were made
utilizing an IBM 704 computer, This program incorporated the effect of
longshore winds which had not been included in the previous 650 calculations,
Following obtention of values for various possible design hurricanes for use
in determining design criteria for possible hurricane protection for the
Narragansett Bay region, the contract was conSidered completed. Computa-
tions made for storm surge estimates in the New York Harbor entrance area
(eng-58-9) were summarized in a report "The Prediction of Hurricane Storm
Tides in New York Bay" published as Technical Memorandum No, 120 of the
Board, This report describes the effort made to correlate storm surges in
New York Bay with the meteorological characteristics of the storms producing
them, and thus to predict the nature of the storm surge resulting from the
hypothetical design hurricane, The method used was largely empirical, but
had theoretical guidance, Therefore, though the constants involved apply
only to the specific areas studied, the general method and procedure may
well have more general application, A discussion of the method presented
was made by Mr, D, Lee Harris (Chief, Hurricane Surge Unit, U. S. Weather
Bureau) in view of possible usage of the method by the Weather Bureau, in
which he suggested a slightly alternative approach, This discussion, and
the reply thereto by the author of the report (Dr. Basil Wilson, A& M
College of Texas) were published as Technical Memorandum No, 120-A of the
Board,
VI, Dr. W. C, Krumbein (Consultant), Study of Beach Sampling Methods,
The initial phase of a continuing program to determine the use of
computer techniques to study the dominant factors influencing beach
32
characteristics and stability has been completed, Field data obtained at
Mission Bay, California in 1950 were utilized in the study and found to
be too few and too similar to develop clearly defined relationships, A
method by which such data may be treated has been determined as a result
of this study, and the design of a possible field test to acquire all
necessary data is underway. The results of the computer study are being
summarized and will be published as a technical memorandum in the latter
part of 1961,
VII, Beach Erosion Board Laboratory.
(a) Wave Forces on Structures,
Analysis was continued on the wave force data obtained in the large
wave tank on a vertical 12-inch diameter pile, This work has been pointed
particularly towards the phase relationship of the water elevation, water
velocity, and wave force with the passage of the waves, A report on this
work is under preparation, A new section on wave forces on piles was pre-
pared for inclusion in Beach Erosion Board Technical Report No, 4, making
use of higher order approximations of wave characteristics, A somewhat
more comprehensive treatment of this work is being put into report form,
(b) Wave Run-up,
Additional large-scale data involving waves up to 3,5 feet in height
were gathered on a 1 on 1-1/2 riprap protected slope using 160-pound rock
in an attempt to determine possible existence of a scale effect, Calibra-
tion tests for this tank were essentially completed, to enable accurate
determination of the waves acting on the structure, Data on effect of
scale in determination of prototype wave run-up from small-scale model
tests on smooth stones were analyzed, and a correction curve prepared for
inclusion in the new edition of Beach Erosion Board Technical Report No. 4.
These data were also combined with run-up data, resulting in a corrected
run-up curve for specific use with normal design waves in inland reservoirs,
This curve is included in a report "Freeboard Allowances for Wind-Generated
Waves in Inland Reservoirs" presented before the American Society of Civil
Engineers, and submitted to them for publication,
(c) Study of Sand Bypassing Operations,
Efforts were continued to collect all available data on Sand by=
passing operations (past, present, or planned) for correlation and study.
The hydrographic survey data obtained in the Port Hueneme area in June
1959 are now being analyzed, A field observation program was initiated in
the vicinity of the new Ventura County Harbor, California, in which an off-
shore breakwater (parallel to the shore) forms a protected area serving as
a sand trap, Sand deposited in this protected area is to be dredged and
bypassed to the downdrift side of Port Hueneme, Wave gages for this study
were installed, and tape recorders for use in obtaining material for wave
33
spectrum analyses to be made at the Board were supplied to the Ventura
area, Study is continuing to determine the feasibility of adapting a
radioactive source type density measuring instrument to be used with a
velocity meter to measure quantity of material pumped in bypassing
operations,
(d) Laboratory Study on Relation of the Littoral Drift Rate to
Incident Waves,
A series of additional laboratory tests were made in the Shore
Processes Test Basin to obtain further data on the relation of littoral
movement to incident wave characteristics, A maximum movement rate of
about 16,000 pounds of sand per hour (dry weight) was obtained with
approximately 9=-inch waves, A few tests have enabled comparison of lit-
toral drift rates for the same average wave conditions, utilizing (1) waves
of a constant period, and (2) waves varying plus or minus 10 to 15 percent
about an average period, The indications are that the transport rate is
greater for the waves with varying characteristics than for the waves of
constant height and period, Additional work on this facet is planned for
the following year, A report discuSsing the tests and results through
1959 was in preparation and esSentially completed, A new feeding mechanism
for introducing sand at the updrift end of the test beach was developed
and tested; a description of this equipment is contained in this Bulletin,
Work has also continued in an attempt to relate measured net quantities of
littoral accumulation at several points on the North Atlantic coast to wave
energy derived from statistical hindcast wave data, A report summarizing
this work iS in preparation,
(e) Measurement of Suspended Material in Laboratory Wave Tanks,
Additional suspended sediment samples were obtained utilizing a
pump-type Sampler in a wave flume using lower specific gravity coal rather
than sand , It is hoped that these measurements may aid in defining scale
relations between model and prototype measurements, Comparison is to be
made with measurements of sand in suspension under the same wave conditions,
and with waves scaled up according to the settling velocity of the sediment,
(f) Wave Theory
Work has continued on baSic wave theory with particular emphasis on
determination of design wave criteria, A report "A One Dimensional Gravity
Wave Spectrum" was presented at the NSF-ONR sponsored conference on wave
spectra and is being published in their Proceedings, This paper describes
the wave spectrum system, its meaning, and use, A further report "A Theory
for Waves of Finite Height" was published in the Proceedings of the Seventh
Conference on Coastal Engineering, The latter report presents an exact
theory, which may be extended to any order, It is represented by summation
in harmonic series, each term of which is in an expanded form, The terms
of the series when expanded result in an approximation of the exact theory,
34
and this approximation is identical to Stokes" wave theory extended to the
Same order, The theory represents the irretational divergenceless flow,
Work also has been under way on preparation of a table of the values of
coefficients used in this theory,
(g) Equilibrium Profile and Model Scale Effect Studies,
Testing was continued in a small tank utilizing low specific gravity
material (crushed coal) to study the effect of scale on movable bed models
under wave action, The specific gravity of the coal was choSen So as to
model the settling velocity of the sand used in the large-scale tests.
Profiles derived from these tests bear basic resemblance to the profiles
obtained with the large (up to 5,5-foot) waves on a sand beach, although
things seem to happen sooner than expected in the small-scale tests,
(h) Rubble Mound Stability.
Large-scale (7.5 to 1) tests on stability of rubble-mound structures
under wave action were continued to spot check the results of the small-
scale test program at the Waterways Experiment Station, Previous tests have
involved entirely non-breaking waves, Since it was felt that somewhat
greater damage might be caused by fully breaking waves having the same in-
cident deep water height as the non-breaking waves, a 1 on 10 concrete beach
Slope was installed in front of the test breakwater to permit generation of
a breaking wave on the breakwater base, These tests were carried out for
the 1 on 1-1/2 slope rubble breakwater using approximately 1-foot diameter,
160-pound stone, The tests did show that initiation of damage to the break-
water occurred with breaking waves having smaller offshore le ights than for
the non=-breaking waves, Calibration of the tank to obtain a precise deter-
mination of the wave heights at the structure location without the structure
in place has been carried out and is essentially completed. Complete analy-
sis of the data obtained on rubble mound stability must await completion of
these calibration tests, The next tests will utilize a four-legged concrete
shape, a quadripod, This shape is somewhat Similar to a tetrapod with a
flat base, A supply of these (weight, 75 pounds each) has been contracted
for, and is currently being delivered.
(i) Wave Measurements and Analysis,
Wave records continue to be taken at the five ocean gage stations
(Atlantic City, New Jersey; Palm Beach and Naples, Florida; Huntington Beach
and Port Hueneme, California). The gage at Naples was destroyed during
Hurricane Donna in September 1960, but has been replaced, Additional tape
recorded wave data for both Atlantic City and Port Hueneme were obtained and
further spectral analyses of some of these were made on the analyzer, Manual
and computer computation of the spectra for some of these were continued for
comparison with those obtained from the analyzer, A report describing the
Spectrum analyzer, its uses, and the analyses presented by it was completed,
and presented at an NAS-ONR conference on wave spectra, A study has been
35
carried out on the interpretation of the analyzer analysis, and a report
is being prepared for users of this analyzer, Arrangements were also made
for installation of a tape recorder on one of the offshore drilling plat-
forms for the California Oil Company in the Gulf of Mexico to obtain data
for spectrum analysis, Arrangements were initiated for a wave gage installa-
tion on the new Coast Guard tower off Buzzards Bay which is being constructed
asa replacement for an offshore lightship, This gage is under construction,
and will be somewhat unique in that it is a double-range type gage, having a
range of 0-15 feet in 4-inch increments and a range of 0-45 feet in 1-foot
increments, The gage will be programmed to obtain a record from each range
every 30 minutes. Drafting of a report on the design, construction, cali-
bration, and use of the various wave gages of the Board was continued, This
report will include a description not only of the normal pressure gage, and
fresh and salt water staff gages, but also a new type staff gage designed
for use in estuaries and bays subject to fresh water flow where accurate
measurements are needed over a wide range of salinities,
(j) Regional Studies,
A report “Geomorphology of the South Shore of Long Island, New York"
has been prepared (Technical Memorandum No, 128), This report presents a
discussion of the geologic factors which have influenced the development of
the south shore of Long Island and includes a graphic presentation of the
shoreline history. All readily available survey data and comparative volu-
metric changes are tabulated in appendices, Compilation of geomorphological
and littoral material data for the coastal sector from Cape Henlopen, Dela-=
ware to Cape Charles, Virginia is under way, as iS compilation of geomorpho-
logical data for the Atlantic coast of Georgia and Amelia Island, Florida,
and the Gulf Coast of Florida from the Suwannee River to the Alabama State
line,
(k) Technical Report No. 4, "Shore Protection Planning and Design",
A continuing study is being made to improve and supplement present
chapters of this publication, Preparation of revisions and addenda were
completed, and the draft of a reprint edition was reviewed and approved by
members of the Beach Erosion Board, This new edition has gone to press,
and publication is expected in the early fall, (Availability of this
reprint publication is indicated elsewhere in this Bulletin,) Major re-
visions and additions involve sections on wave run-up, hurricane waves and
surge, deSign criteria for rubble mound stability, and wave forces on piles,
(1) Re-examination of Beach Protection Projects,
A continuing program is being carried out on the re-examination of
artificially nourished beaches to determine the effectiveness of the fill
material within the beach zones, and to better establish the factors upon
which the desired characteristics of fill material are based, Continuing
studies of other projects constructed following Beach Erosion Control
36
studies are under way to determine effectiveness of the various structure
components, A report "Behavior of Beach Fill and Borrow Area at Prospect
Beach, West Haven, Connecticut" has been prepared (Technical Memorandum
No, 127), This report analyzes comparative survey and sample data to
determine the behavior of beach fill obtained from an of fshore borrow
source, Beach fill projects in Connecticut (other than Prospect Beach),
New Jersey, Delaware, Florida, Pennsylvania and California were under study
this fiscal year,
(m) Experimental Studies of the Bffectiveness of Sand Fences,
In cooperation with the State of North Carolina and the Wilmington
District of the Corps of Engineers a study has been initiated on Core Bank,
one of the Outer Banks of North Carolina, on the effectiveness of various
types of sand fence in building and stabilizing dunes, A series of 1,000-
foot sections of various types and arrangements of sand fence have been
installed on Core Bank, and periodic examinations and surveys aré made to
obtain information on the comparative effectiveness of the various sections,
A self-contained wind measuring instrument has been installed in the test
area to obtain information on wind velocity during the experiment,
(n) Model Determination, Scour at Toe of Seawalls,
A study has been initiated in the Shore Processes Test Basin in an
attempt to experimentally relate the depth and lateral extent of scour at
the toe of seawalls to incident wave and beach sediment characteristics,
Waves are generated perpendicular to a vertical seawall located initially
at the still water level, and the development of the scour hole is measured,
Several wave conditions have now been tested for two sand sizes (0,2 and
0.4=-mm median diameter), Although the program has involved so far only a
vertical wall, located at the still water level, other types of walls and
locations relative to still water level are planned for future tests,
(o) Hurricane Studies,
The staff of the Board has continued to support the hurricane study
work of the Corps of Engineers, Considerable work has been done by the
staff in developing and improving simplified methods for estimating storm
surge elevations and wave heights under a variety of shoreline conditions,
Wave forces, and wave run-up and overtopping phenomena connected with sea-
wall, dike, and barrier deSign under hurricane conditions have also been
Studied, A generalized study of the effect of offshore slope on the amount
of wave set-up observed with high hurricane waves has continued, The test
results have been summarized in a report "Experimental Determination of
Wave Set-up" delivered at the 2nd Technical Conference on Hurricanes at
Miami Beach, Florida, In general the tests have indicated a wave set-up
at the shore line of about 10 to 15 percent of the wave height for beach
profiles of 1 on 15 slope and less, with little or no set-up at the shore
line for slopes steeper than about 1 on 6, A number of tests have also
37
been made with an offshore barrier with top elevations at or slightly be-
low the still water level, These tests indicate considerably higher wave
set-up, the presence of the barrier sometimes doubling the set-up at the
shore line, However, these tests involved a barrier across the entire
width of the wave tank, and so did not permit any lateral flow out of the
area of increased water level, as would probably occur in nature, Conse-
quently, this indicated barrier effect is possibly considerably exaggerated,
VIII, Publications
Technical Memoranda published by the Board during fiscal years 1960
and 1961 are listed below, Copies can be furnished on request to persons
within the United States to the extent of a limited printing,
TM, No, Title and Date
F.Y. 1960
*116 On the Theory of the Highest Waves, July 1959,
117. The Damping of Oscillatory Waves by Laminar Boundary Layers,
August 1959,
*118 Wave Variability and Wave Spectra for Wind-Generated Gravity
Waves, August 1959,
*Now out of print.
F.Y, 1961
119 Sand Movement by Wind Action (On Characteristics of Sand Traps),
August 1960,
120 The Prediction of Hurricane Storm-Tides in New York Bay,
August 1960,
120-A Discussion of Technical Memorandum No, 120 (and Closure by Author),
April 1961,
121 Development and Tests of a Radioactive Sediment Density Probe,
September 1960,
122 Effects of Reefs and Bottom Slopes on Wind Set-up in Shallow Water,
Novembér 1960,
123. Transient Wind Tides in Shallow Water, January 1961.
124 Experimental Study on the Solitary Wave Reflection Along a Straight
Sloped Wall at Oblique Angle of Incidence, March 1961,
125 On the Description of Short-Crested Waves, March 1961,
Material covered by the Technical Memoranda listed abow is briefly
described in the foregoing paragraphs (1 to VII) Research Progress or in
the section on Research Progress in volume 14, July 1960, of the Annual
Bulletin of the Beach Erosion Board,
38
TECHNICAL REPORT No.4
SHORE PROTECTION PLANNING AND DESIGN
A reprinting of the Beach Erosion Board*s Technical Report No, 4,
Shore Protection Planning and Design with revisions current to May 1961,
will be available in October 1961,. The supply of the original report
printed in 1954 was exhausted in 1958, Continued demand has indicated the
need of reprinting, This report is a comprehensive compendium of available
knowledge for solution of coastal engineering problems, and contains a sum-
mary of applicable methods, techniques and pertinent data useful to both
practicing and research engineers, It is also suitable as a text book for
the teaching of coastal engineering subjects,
This report may be purchased from the Superintendent of Documents,
U. S. Government Printing Office, Washington 25, D, C. at $3.00 per copy
in the United States, Foreign orders should include $0.75 additional to
cover postage,
39
BEACH EROSION STUDIES
Beach erosion control studies of specific localities are usually made
by the Corps of Bngineers in cooperation with appropriate agencies of the
various States by authority of Section 2 of the River and Harbor Act
‘approved 3 July 1930. By executive ruling the costs of these studies are
divided equally between the United States and the cooperating agencies,
Information concerning the initiation of a cooperative study may be ob-
tained from any District or Division Engineer of the Corps of Engineers,
After a report on a cooperative study has been transmitted to Congress, a
summary thereof is included in the next issue of this Bulletin, Summaries
of reports transmitted to Congress since the last issue of the Bulletin
and lists of completed and authorized cooperative studies follow.
SUMMARIES OF REPORTS TRANSMITTED TO CONGRESS
SAN_DIBGO COUNTY, CALIFORNIA
The purposes of the investigation were to determine the causes and most
suitable methods of controlling erosion of the shores of San Diego County,
California, An interim report on the same shores (B.E.B. Bulletin, Vol. 10,
1956) considered the more urgent problems at Oceanside, Ocean Beach, Imperial
Beach, and Coronado, This study also included, as directed by Congress, a
survey of Camp Pendleton Harbor and Oceanside, California with a view to
determining the extent of Federal aid which should be granted toward recom-
mended beach erosion control measures at Oceanside in equity without regard
to limitations of Federal law applicable to beach erosion control,
San Diego County is in Southern California immediately north of the
Mexican boundary, Its Pacific Ocean shore line, extending in a general
north-south direction, is about 75 miles long, The coastal area consists
generally of a series of long narrow beaches backed by bluffs and steep
hills, except that at Mission and San Diego Bays it consists of low sandy
peninsulas separating the ocean from those bays, The coastal area of the
northern half of the county is drained by short, steep, intermittent streams,
In the southern haif, the drainage was formerly into Mission and San Diego
Bays, except for the Tia Juana River which discharges into the ocean about
1-1/2 miles north of the Mexican border, Since 1951 San Diego River dis-
charges directly into the ocean through a separate flood channel adjacent
to the entrance to Mission Bay,
The City of Oceanside with a population of about 20,500 is in the north-
ern part of San Diego County about 18 miles south of the north county line,
It has an ocean frontage of about 3 miles, characterized by bluffs 20 to 40
feet high fronted by a narrow beach, Of the shore frontage requiring pro-
tection, a section about 10,000 feet in length is owned by the city; the
remainder is privately owned. The center of Oceanside is about 2 miles south
of the entrance to the Federal (Navy Department) harbor at Camp Pendleton.
That harbor consists of an inner basin 20 feet deep. Jetties at the entrance
were built in 1943 and the north jetty was extended southward to overlap the
40
south jetty in 1958. The problem at Oceanside is one of shore recession
due to impoundment of the dominant southward littoral drift at the harbor
jetties, An existing Federal beach erosion control project provides for
artificial placement of beach fill on the Oceanside frontage. Although this
fill was partially placed in 1957-58 in connection with dredging Camp Pen-
dleton Harbor, erosion of the fill has been rapid because of the deficiency
of natural supply of material, and because reconstruction of jetties at Camp
Pendleton Harbor provided additional protected area for local impoundment
of beach material, Additional measures are desired to restore and maintain
an adequate protective and recreational beach along the city frontage.
Ocean Beach, a part of the City of San Diego, is a short pocket beach
between the Mission Bay - San Diego River jetties and Sunset Cliffs, An
existing Federal beach erosion control project provided for placement of
beach fill in connection with dredging of the Federal navigation project for
Mission Bay and construction of one groin, This work was completed in 1955,
No further work is required at this time, Imperial Beach is a residential
community on the ocean shore about 3.5 miles north of the Mexican border.
An existing Federal project provides for construction of five groins on this
Shore frontage. The most northerly groin was constructed in 1959 in accord-
ance with the program of progressive construction from north to south, This
construction resulted in widening of the beach and indicates that completion
of the project will provide a satisfactory protective and recreational beach,
The tides on the ocean shore of the study area have a diurnal inequal-
ity, the mean and diurnal ranges being respectively about 3.7 and 5.3 feet.
The maximum tide each year is abcut 7 feet above mean lower low water,
Characteristic waves are swells generated in distant ocean areas, They have
heights up to 10 feet and periods up to 20 seconds, with the greater heights
and shorter periods occurring in the winter, Winter waves generally approach
the shore from upcoast of normal, Summer waves frequently approach from down-
coast of normal, On the ocean Shores north of Point Loma at the entrance to
San Diego Bay, littoral drift is in general southward in winter and northward
in summer, In the Oceanside area southward drift is predominant, as indicated
by the general accretion north of the Camp Pendleton Harbor jetties and ero-
sion to the south, At Mission Beach and Ocean Beach the net annual movement
in either direction is negligible, South of Point Loma, the predominant
direction of drift is northward, At all ocean front areas there is also a
large seasonal onshore-offshore movement of material,
The District Engineer concluded that localities which have had erosion
problems warranting remedial action are included in authorized Federal
projects; that the project for Ocean Beach being completed is serving effect=
ively at this time; and that the project for Imperial Beach is partially
completed and will apparently be continued to effective completion in accord-
ance with the project plan, He further found that certain modifications are
necessary in the existing project for Oceanside in order to provide for
changed conditions since the project was adopted and to revise the Federal
contribution toward the cost on the basis of equity,
4l
The District and Division Engineers and the Beach Erosion Board con=-
cluded that the modified plan of shore protection for Oceanside should
provide a protective beach 200 feet wide for about 13,000 feet between
Camp Pendleton Harbor and Witherby Street and 100 feet wide for about 4,500
feet south of Loma Alta Creek by artificial placement of approximately
2,200,000 cubic yards of suitable sand, including 500,000 cubic yards of
sand aS advance nourishment, and a groin about 800 feet long near the north
limit of the fill to prevent future loss by impoundment within the harbor
area, Periodic nourishment of the beach fill would be accomplished by
artificial placement of sand in connection with maintenance dredging of the
navigation channels at Camp Pendleton Harbor and the propoSed civilian
small-craft harbor, at no cost to the project. They made an economic
analysis of the modified plan for Oceanside and concluded that the modified
plan is justified by prospective benefits, that the erosion has been cauSed
by construction of Camp Pendleton Harbor by the United States as a wartime
meaSure, Without provisions for preventing damage to adjoining shores, and
that in equity the restoration of beach conditions existing prior to harbor
construction Should be a Federal responsibility. They accordingly recom-
mended adoption of a project in lieu of the authorized project at Oceanside
to provide a protective beach generally 200 feet wide by 13,000 feet long
north of Witherby Street and generally 100 feet wide by 4,500 feet long
south of Loma Alta Creek, and to provide a stone groin about 800 feet long
near the north limit of the fill, They also recommended, subject to certain
conditions, that the total first cost of the work be borne by the United
States, but that the cost of maintaining the groin be borne by local interests,
The Chief of Engineers concurred in the views and recommendations of the
Beach Erosion Board and further recommended that any material dredged in con-
nection with Camp Pendleton Harbor or any subsequently developed civilian
harbor in the area be used for nourishment of the Oceanside beach, and subject
further to the condition that local interests agree that the cost allocated
to this beach protection project shall be adjusted to reflect the savings from
multiple=purpose conStruction of the addition of the contemplated Oceanside
harbor improvement to the over-all project, if authorized, and the cost so
transferred from the Beach erosion project to the harbor project be shared
by local interests and the Federal Government as appropriate for small=-boat
harbor projects,
AMELIA ISLAND (FERNANDINA BEACH), FLORIDA
The purpose of the investigation was to determine the most satisfactory
method of restoring and preserving the beach for protection of existing
structures and for recreational use, Amelia Island is in Nassau County in
the northeast corner of Florida, about 20 miles north of Jacksonville, The
island is about 13 miles long between St, Marys River on the north and Nassau
Sound on the south, The City of Fernandina Beach is near the north end of
Amelia Island, The 1950 populations of Fernandina Beach and Nassau County
were respectively about 4,400 and 12,800, Although summer increases in
population have been Small, the trend is toward more summer reSort activity
42
as accomodations are expanded. Fort Clinch State Park occupies a shore
frontage of about 4,000 feet immediately south of St. Marys River entrance,
The study area extends about 5 miles south of the jettied mouth of St. Marys
River to the fishing pier, The Fort Clinch State Park beach is backed by
high dunes, The shore of the problem area, which begins south of the park,
is generally low with residential development immediately back of the berm,
The problem is one of gradual erosion of the shore throughout the latter
area, This eroSion has resulted in damage to roads and buildings as the
protective beach was reduced in width,
The tides at Amelia Island are semi-diurnal, with mean and spring
ranges of 5.7 and 6.7 feet respectively, Waves affecting the shore approach
principally from the northeast quadrant resulting in southward predominance
in direction of littoral drift, as indicated by past accretion at the St,
Marys River north jetty. However, reversals in drift direction cause some
accumulation of sand in a fillet south of the south jetty, Due to the rela-
tively low top elevation and permeability of this jetty sand is carried over
or through the jetty into the inlet,
The District and Division Engineers and the Beach Erosion Board concluded
that the most suitable complete plan of protection comprises a protective
beach about 13,000 feet long and a groin about 800 feet long near the north
limit of the fill, The protective beach with a berm 50 feet wide at elevation
11 feet above mean low water would be provided by artificial placement of
approximately 300,000 cubic yards of suitable sand for the initial fill and
600,000 cubic yards of sand as advance nourishment, Periodic nourishment of
approximately 200,000 cubic yards of sand per year would be required to main-
tain the widened beach, They made an economic analysis of the foregoing
complete plan of protection and found it to be not justified by evaluated
benefits, They also considered a partial protection plan comprising construc-
tion of one groin and placement of spoil from maintenance dredging of the
Fernandina Harbor entrance channel on the beach about 4,000 feet south of the
south jetty. They estimated that this plan would involve placement of about
120,000 cubic yards of sand annually, Although they believed that this plan
would reduce the rate of erosion, they did not evaluate the benefits therefrom
which were conSidered to be relatively small,
The District and Division Engineers and Beach Erosion Board concluded
that the cost of protecting the beach of Amelia Island by either plan exceeds
the benefits that could be reasonably expected by a wide margin, and recom-
mended that no project be adopted by the United States at this time authoriz-
ing Federal participation in the costs of shore protection at Amelia Island,
Florida, They further recommended tmt, subject to their own determination
of economic justification, local interests consider adoption of the complete
plan of protection comprising beach widening, construction of one groin and
periodic nourishment, or aS a minimum construct one groin and arrange to have
dredged material placed on the beach periodically and pay such costs as may
be involved in excess of the costs of disposal by other means, The Chief of
Engineers concurred in the views and recommendations of the Beach Erosion
Board,
43
PALM BEACH COUNTY, FLORIDA
(from Martin County line to Lake Worth Inlet and from
South Lake Worth Inlet to Broward County line)
The purpose of the investigation was to determine the most economical
method or methods of restoring the beaches and shore property from future
eroSion, The study area comprises two reaches of shore totalling 29.3 miles
on the east coast of Florida from the Martin County line to Lake Worth Inlet
and from South Lake Worth Inlet to the Broward County line. A study of the
intervening reach was completed in 1957 (B.E.B. Bulletin - Vol, 12, 1958).
The area is centered about 70 miles north of Miami, Parts of the area are
extensively developed as winter resorts, The permanent population of the
county, about 157,000, is greatly increased during the winter, About 2.4
miles of the ocean Shore are publicly owned, most of which is used for
public bathing beaches, The shore of the study area is exposed to waves of
the Atlantic Ocean, To the northeast the fetch is unlimited, but to the
east and Southeast the incidence of swells is influenced by the shelter
afforded by the islands of the Bahama group, The predominance of energy
components is such as to preduce a dominant southward littoral transport,
However, reversals in direction of transport occur, principally in the
Summer, The mean and spring tidal ranges are respectively 2,8 and 3.3 feet.
The two highest tides of record, 11.2 and 8.7 feet above mean low water,
eccurred during hurricanes in 1928 and 1936 respectively. A tide of 7 feet
is considered suitable for design purposes, as a tide of this height could
be expected during hurricanes of medium intensity, The only apparent
natural source of littoral material to supply the problem areas is the
eroding beaches to the north, The accumulation of sand north of Lake Worth
Inlet indicates a littoral drift rate of about 230,000 cubic yards annually.
The District and Division Bngineers concluded that the most practicable
plan of shore protection consists of artificial placement of protective and
recreational beaches, Continued operation of the existing sand-transfer
plant at South Lake Worth Inlet and additional periodic nourishment by arti-
ficial placement of suitable material from adjacent waterways would provide
for stability of the protective beaches, They made economic analyses of the
foregoing plan of protection by sections, and concluded that the plans of
protection are economically justified for all reaches studied, They found
fhat public benefits justify Federal aid of one-third of the first and
periodic nourishment costs for the publicly owned shores, and that public
benefits for certain privately owned reaches of shore justify Federal aid
for those reaches,
The District and Division Engineers and the Beach Erosion Board recom=
mended adoption of projects for Palm Beach County, Plorida to authorize
Federal participation in the costs of the plans for protection of the shores
between Martin County and Lake Worth Inlet and between South Lake Worth and
Boca Raton Inlets comprising restoration of a protective beach to a general
width of 100 feet with a berm elevation cf 10 feet above mean low water and
44
subsequent periodic nourishment thereof including operation of the sand-
transfer plant at South Lake Worth Inlet for a period of 10 years from the
year of completion of the initial placement, substantially in accordance
with the plan developed by the District Engineer, with such modifications
thereof as may be considered advisable by the Chief of Engineers, Federal
assistance would entail contribution of funds toward the initial construc-
tion costs of the beach restoration and of the costs of periodic nourish-
ment for a period of 10 years in amount of 3,2 percent for the Martin
County-Jupiter Inlet segment, 7.7 percent for the Jupiter Inlet-Lake Worth
Inlet segment and 3,4 percent for the South Lake Worth Inlet-Boca Raton
Inlet segment,
The Chief of Engineers concurred in the views and recommendations of
the Beach Erosion Board,
DELAWARE BAY COAST OF NEW JERSEY
(Cape May Canal to Maurice River)
The purpose of the investigation was to develop the most suitable plans
for restoration and protection of the problem areas, The study area is in
Cape May and Cumberland Counties, New Jersey, It comprises the Delaware Bay
shore from the entrance of Cape May Canal to the mouth of Maurice River, a
shore length of about 22 miles centered about 70 miles southeast of Phila-
delphia, Pennsylvania, A narrow strip of the coast, principally between
Cape May Canal and Bidwell Ditch, is developed to a minor extent as a Summer
resort area, The estimated permanent population of the shore communities is
about 3,200 and the summer population is about 23,300. About 10 percent of
the shore frontage is publicly owned, but it is not developed for public use,
The shore from Bidwell Ditch to Cape May Canal, approximately 11 miles long,
is oriented north to south, It is characterized generally by low banks,
narrow beaches and offshore mud flats, Accretion of sand has occurred north
of the Cape May Canal and south of the Bidwell Ditch jetties at the ends of
this section, North of Bidwell Ditch to West Creek, a distance of 4 miles,
the shore is concave, It is undeveloped and fronts marsh land, West of
West Creek, a frontage of about 7 miles to and including East Point, the
shore is oriented generally from east to west, It consists generally of
sandy beaches with scattered houses fronting marSh land. Tides in Delaware
Bay are semi-diurnal, their mean range being 4,7 feet at Cape May Point and
5.7 feet at East Point near the mouth of Maurice River, The maximum tide
of recent record was about 10 feet above mean low water at East Point,
Storms in Delaware Bay are the sole cause of important wave action, Accretion
at the Cape May Canal north jetty and the Bidwell Ditch south jetty indicates
littoral transport in both directions along that section of Shore, with pos-
sibly some northward predominance, From East Point to Dennis Creek, the
littoral transport probably has a Slight eastward predominance, Rates of
movement and loSs are apparently low.
The District and Division Engineers and the Beach Erosion Board con-
cluded that the most suitable plans of protection for the several problem
45
areas comprise placement of beach fill, supplemented in certain cases with
planting of dune grass and periodic nourishment of the beach, They further
found that the public benefits of the work would be insignificant, and
therefore made no determination of economic justification. They recom
mended that no project be adopted authorizing Federal participation in any
beach erosion control measures for the area, and that no share of the cost
of constructing any improvement be borne by the United States. They further
recommended that any beach erosion control measures which may be undertaken
by local interests, based upon their own determination of economic justifi-
cation, be accomplished in accordance with the plans proposed in this report,
The Chief of Engineers concurred in the views and recommendations of the
Beach Brosion Board.
SHORE LINE OF LAKE ERIE FROM OHIO-MICHIGAN STATE LINE TO MARBLEHEAD, OHIO
The purposes of the investigation were determination of methods and
costs for protecting the shores of the study area and appropriate changes in
recommendations contained in the Beach Erosion Board*s 1944 report on this
area (B.E.B, Bulletin, Vol. 1, No. 1, 1947) and development of specific plans
and estimates of their costs for restoration and protection of publicly
owned shores at Metzger Marsh, Crane Creek State Park, the area opposite
State Highway No, 2 west of Port Clinton, and East Harbor State Park, The
area studied is located all within Lucas and Ottawa Counties, except for
Kelleys Island in Erie County, on the south shore of Lake Erie north and
east of Toledo, Ohio, It includes the north and south shores of Maumee
Bay at the western end of Lake Erie, the westernmost 35 miles of the south
shore of Lake Erie between Little Cedar Point and a point about 1/2 mile
east of Marblehead Light, and offshore islands, North Bass, Middle Bass,
South Bass and Kelleys Islands, Toledo Harbor and Channel, Port Clinton at
the mouth of Portage River, and Put-in-Bay on South Bass Island, have all
been improved by the United States for navigation,
A population of over 3-1/2 million reSided within a 60-mile radius of
the study area in 1950 and the larger metropolitan areas have shown increases
of over 20 percent to 1959, Toledo is adjacent to the study area and Detroit,
Michigan lies within the 60-mile radius, Where property along the shore line
has been developed, it has been mainly for private residential or recreational
purposes, Extensive commercial development has taken place near the mouth
of Maumee River at the extreme western end of the study area. The City of
Toledo owns shore frontage at Bay View Park near the mouth of Maumee River and
the City of Port Clinton owns Lakeview Park immediately east of the mouth of
Portage River, The State of Ohio owns Shore areas at Metzger Marsh, Crane
Creek State Park, Camp Perry and a half-mile stretch of beach fronting State
Highway No. 2, all west of Port Clinton, and at Catawba Island and East Harbor
State Parks to the east thereof, The State also owns waterfront property on
the western shore of South Bass Island and about 500 feet of shore on the
north shore of Kellys Island. There is Federally owned shore frontage at the
Brie Proving Grounds Reservation west of Camp Perry and at a small National
Park area near the neck of South Bass Island, the latter being the location
of Perry*s Victory Memorial Monument, A small public bathing beach owned by
46
the village of Put-in-Bay adjoins the Federal park. The marshy areas west
of Port Clinton are used extensively for hunting and trapping, Pollution
is not a problem at any of the bathing beaches within the study area.
Studies in 1956 indicated the Lake Erie waters in this region to be of good
quality for swimming or other recreational purposes,
The mainland shore under study consists principally of low-lying marshy
or reclaimed marsh areas fronted by low barrier beaches composed of fine
Sand, The west shore of Catawba Island and the shore between East Harbor and
Marblehead Light are comprised of glacial till or rocky bluffs with coarse
pebble or cobble beaches at indentations, Shores of the offshore islands are
of rugged nature, consisting of cliffs for most of the islands* perimeters,
Maumee and Portage Rivers are the principal rivers draining into Lake Erie
through the study area, but neither contributes any substantial amount of
beach material to the Lake Erie shore, Several other minor streams and
drainage canals also reach Lake Erie through the shores of the study area.
West of Locust Point, wider beaches have accumulated to the east of struc-
tures at the creek mouths, while east of Locust Point wider beaches appear
to the west of structures, A large sand bar extends northwest from Little
Cedar Point across the Maumee Bay entrance, Material supplying the bar and
beaches is derived chiefly from erosion of adjacent Shores, but throughout
the entire area there is a Scarcity of littoral drift, Excepting rocky
headlands on the mainland and the offshore islands, the entire study area
has a history of eroSion, In many places the natural barrier beaches have
been breached and are deteriorating under wave action, Matzger Marsh is open
to Lake Erie even at normal lake stages, Reno Beach and Howard Farms, east
of Little Cedar Point, are protected by a lake shore earth levee constructed
by the two communities, This levee has been breached and repaired at various
times, An authorized Federal project for flood control at this location has
not yet been built, Miscellaneous groins, bulkheads, and revetments have
been erected in attempts to stabilize the shore, but have been only partially
effective, The scarcity of natural littoral drift material precludes the
formation of adequate beaches by groins alone, Six steel sheet pile groins
varying in length from 109 to 187 feet and spaced 300 feet apart were con-
structed by the State of Ohio in 1958 at Crane Creek State Park.
The mean lake level for the months of April to November is about 1.8
feet above the established low water datum of elevation 570.5 feet, The
highest lake stage and the highest monthly mean recorded at Toledo, Ohio,
are respectively about 6.5 and 4.2 feet above low water datum, Storms cause
sharp changes in lake levels as winds move the water toward the ends of the
lake, The greater fetch and movement of winds affecting the area are from
the northeasterly direction, and becauSe the area is near the western end
of Lake Erie, it is estimated that, considering the effect of wind setup
during easterly storms, the lake could reach a level in the Study area of
about 6 feet above low water datum with a frequency of at least once in 20
years, During a northeast storm waves may range up to 8 or 9 feet in height
in deep water with annual frequency, but ordinarily waves of this height
would break before reaching Shore structures, Natural beach berm heights
in the study area range from 5 to 9 feet above low water datum, Existing
47
groins with shore ends from about 6 to 11 feet above low water datum indicate
that these elevations are generally adequate to impound a low protective beach
where a supply of sand by littoral drift is available, Along the low marshy
shores of the study area, dikes or barrier beaches provide the only protection
to the landward areas from storm-wave action of Lake Erie, Protection against
wave action should extend to a height of 10 feet above low water datum to
assure prevention of damaging overtopping, For the remainder of the study
area where resistant bluffs exist alongshore, no further protection is needed,
Ice forms a protective coating over beaches during winter months, but the
lifting and battering action of shifting ice floes during the spring breakup
must be considered in designing shore structures for structural stability,
The District and Division Engineers developed plans for protecting and
improving the shores of the study area as follows:
a. Metzger Marsh - An earth levee along the north and east sides
of the State-owned property with top width about 10 feet at elevation 580.5
feet (10 feet above low water datum) and lakeward slope covered with a 3-foot
layer of riprap,
b, Crane Creek State Park - Restoring a sand barrier beach along
17,800 feet of State-owned property by placement of sand fill to a 50-foot
berm width at elevation 579.5 feet (9 feet above low water datum) sloping
upward to elevation 580.5 feet at the parking lot, and construction of 36
groins (6 of which have already been built but require landward extensions),
spaced at 500-foot intervals and extending lakeward about 300 feet, to retain
the fill,
c., State Highway Frontage Near Port Clinton - Providing a protec-
tive sand beach or a stone revetment,
The District and Division Engineers considered the jetty proposed by the State
of Ohio at the navigation entrance to East Harbor, They concluded that it
should be built to an alternative alignment, that is, northeasterly rather
than easterly as proposed by the State, and extended farther lakeward (to the
4-foot depth contour) in order to better control entrapment of littoral drift
and protect the entrance from storm waves from the northwest quadrant,
The District and Division Engineers found that restoration and protection
of the beach at Crane Creek State Park are justified by evaluated benefits,
and further found that the nature and amount of benefits warrant Federal par-
ticipation in the construction of considered improvements at Crane Creek State
Park,
The Beach Erosion Board recommended that project be adopted by the United
Stated authorizing Federal participation by the contribution of Federal funds
in amount of one-third of the first costs of measures for the restoration and
protection of the shore at Crane Creek State Park, Ohio, substantially in
48
accordance with the following plan of the District and Division Engineers,
with such modifications thereof as may be considered advisable by the Chief
of Engineers:
Restoring a Sand barrier beach by placement of suitable sand
fill along 17,800 feet of shore to a 50-foot width at eleva-
tion 579.5 feet (9 feet above low water datum) and construction
of 36 groins spaced generally at 500-foot intervals and extend-
ing lakeward about 300 feet (construction of 26 of the groins
to be deferred pending determination of the neéd thereof ,)
The Board further recommended Federal participation in amount of one-third
of the periodic nourishment costs for the section in which groin construction
is deferred and for the period of such deferral, The Chief of Engineers con-
curred in the views and recommendations of the Beach Erosion Board.
49
COMPLETED COOPERATIVE BEACH EROSION STUDIES
BEB FEDERAL PROJECTS
REPORT PUBLISHED IN RECOMMEN- AUTHORIZED
LOCATION COMPLETED H. DOC. CONG. DATION BY CONGRESS
ALABAMA
Perdido Pass (Alabama Pt.) 18 Jun 5h 27h 84 Unfav.
CALIFORNIA
Santa Barbara - Initial 15 Jan 38 552 75 Unfav.
Suppl. 18 Feb 2
Final 22 May h7 = 761 80 Unfav.
Ballona Creek & San Gabriel
R, (Partial) 11 May 38 Unfav.
Orange County 10 Jan h}O 637 76 Unfav.
Coronado Beach ) Apr 1 636 77 Unfav.
Long Beach 3 Apr h2 Unfav.
Mission Beach h Nov 2 Unfav.
Pt, Mugu to San Pedro BW 27 Jun 51 277 83 Fav. 3 Sep 5h
Carpinteria to Pt. Mugu h Oct 51 39.29 83 += Fave 3 Sep 5h
Oceanside, Ocean Beach,
Imperial Beach & Coronado,
San Diego County 26 Jul 55 = 399 8, Fav. 3 Jul 58
Santa Cruz County 13 Sep 56 179 85 Fav. 3 Jul 58
Humboldt Bay (Buhne Pt.) 29 Mar 57 282 85 Fav. 3 Jul 58
Newport Bay to San Mateo
Creek, Orange County 3 Dec 59 398 86 ~=©Fav. 14 Jul 60
San Diego County 30 Jun 60 456 86 Fave 29 Mar 61
CONNECTICUT
Compo Beach, Westport 18 Apr 35 239 Th Unfav.
Hawk's Nest Beach, Old Lyme 21 Jun 39 Unfav,.
Ash Crk. to Saugatuck R, 29 Apr h9 = Sh 81 ~—s Fav. 17 May 50
Hammonasset R. to East R. 29 Apr 9) 7h 81 Fav. 3 Sep 5h
New Haven Hbr, to
Housatonic R, 29 Jun 51 39203 83 Fav, 3 Sep 54
Conn. R. to Hammonasset R, 28 Dec 51 =514 82 Unfav.
Pawcatuck R. to Thames R, 31 Mar 52 31 83 Unfav.
Niantic Bay to Com. R. 11 Jul 52 = 8 83 Unfav. 3 Sep 5h
Housatonic R, to Ash Creek 12 Mar 53-28 83 Fav.
East R. to New Haven Hbr. 15 Nov 55 395 8h Fav. 3 Jul 58
Saugatuck R, to Byram R. 1, Nov 56 17h 85 Fave 3 Jul 58
Thames R. to Niantic Bay 17 Jm 57) 33h 85 Unfav.
50
BEB FEDERAL PROJECTS
REPORT PUBLISHED IN RECOMMEN- AUTHORIZED
LOCATION COMPLETED H. DOC. CONG. DATION BY CONGRESS
DELAWARE
Kitts Hummock to Fenwick Is. 11 Feb 57 216 85 Fav. 3 Jul 58
FLORIDA
Blind Pass (Boca Ciega) 1 Feb 37 187 75 Unfav.
Miami Beach 1 Feb 37 169 75 Unfav.
Hollywood Beach 28 Apr 37 253 75 Unfav.
Daytona Beach 15 Mar 38 571 75 Unfav.
Bakers Haulover Inlet 21 May 45 527 79 Unfav.
Anna Maria & Longboat Keys 12 Feb 47 760 80 Unfav.
Jupiter Island 13 Feb 47 765 80 Unfav.
Palm Beach(1) 13 Feb 47 772 80 Fav. 17 May 50
Pinellas County 22 Apr 53 380 83 Fav. 3 Sep 54
Palm Beach County (Lk. Worth
Inlet to S. Lake Worth I.) 12 Jul 57 342 85 Fav. 3 yo 33
Key West 10 Mar 58 413 85 Fav. 14 Jul 60
Amelia Island 16 Aug 60 200 87 Unfav.
Palm Beach County 23 Aug 60 164 87 Fav.
GEORGIA
St. Simon Island 18 Mar 40 820 76 Unfav.
HAWATI
Waikiki Beach 5 Aug 52 227 83 Fav. 3 Sep 54
Waimea & Hanapepe Bay, Kauai 17 Jan 56 432 84 Fav. 3 Jul 58
ILLINOIS
State of Illinois 8 Jun 50 28 83 Fav. 3 Sep 54
(Dy cooperative study of experimental steel sheet pile groins was also made,
under which methods of improvement were recommended in an interim report
dated 19 Sep 1940. Final report on experimental groins was published in
1948 as Technical Memo. No. 10 of the Beach Erosion Board.
SI
BEB FEDERAL PROJECTS
REPORT PUBLISHED IN RECOMMEN= AUTHORIZED
LOCATION COMPLETED H. DOC. CONG. DATION BY CONGRESS
LOUISIANA
Grand Isle 28 Jul 36 92 75 Unfav.
Grand Isle 28 Jun 54 132 84 Unfav.
Belle Pass to Raccoon Point 13 Jun 61 Un fav.
MAINE
Old Orchard Beach 20 Sep 35 Unfav.
Saco 2 Mar 56 32 85 Unfav.
MASSACHUSETTS
South Shore of Cape Cod
(Pt. Gammon to Chatham) 26 Aug 41 Unfav.
Salisbury Beach 26 Aug 41 Unfav.
Winthrop Beach 12 Sep 47 764 80 Fav. 17 May 50
Lynn-Nahant Beach 20 Jan 50 134 82 Fav. 3 Sep 54
Revere Beach 12 Jan 50 146 82 Fav. 3 Sep 54
Nantasket Beach 12 Jan 50 Unfav.
Quincy Shore 2 May 50 145 82 Fav. 3 Sep 54
Plum Island 18 Nov 52 243 83 Unfav.
Chatham 22 Oct 56 167 85 Unfav.
Pemberton Pt. to Cape Cod
Canal 13 Jan 59 272 86 Fav. 14 Jul 60
Wessagussstt Beach,
Weymouth 6 Jul 59 334 86 Fav. 14 Jul 60
Cape Cod Canal to
Provincetown 5 Peb 60 404 86 Fav, 14 Jul 60
MICHIGAN
Berrien County (St. Joseph) 17 Jun 57 336 85 Fav. 3 Jul 58
MISSISSIPPI.
Hancock County 3 Apr 42 Unfav.
Harrison County = Initial 15 Mar 44
Harrison County - Suppl. 16 Feb 48 682 80 Fav. 30 jun 48
BEB
REPORT PUBLISHED IN
LOCATION CQMPLETED H. DOC.
NEW_HAMPSHIRE
Hampton Beach TS julss2
Hampton Beach 14 Sep 53 325
Atlantic Ocean shore
(entire) 30 Jun 61
NEW JERSEY
Manasquan Inlet & Adjacent
Beaches 15 May 36 ab
Atlantic City 11 Jul 49 538
Ocean City 15 Apr 52 184
Sandy Hook to Barnegat Inlet 24 Mar 54 361
Review Report - Sandy Hook
to Barnegat Inlet 6 May 57 332
Barnegat Inlet to Delaware
Bay Entrance to Cape May
Canal 22 Sep 58 208
Delaware Bay,Shore -
Cape May Canal to
Maurice River 10 Jun 60 196
NEW YORK
Jacob Riis Park, Long Island 16 Dec 35 397
Orchard Beach, Peiham Bay,
Bronx 30 Aug 37 450
Niagara County 27 Jun 42 271
South Shore of Long Island 6 Aug 46
Selkirk Shores State Park 21 Oct 53 343
Fair Haven Beach State Park 18 Jun 54 134
Hamlin Beach State Park 20 Sep 54 138
Braddock Bay State Park 15 Apr 55
Fire Island Inlet to
Jones Inlet 10 Feb 56 411
Fire Island Inlet to Montauk
Pt. (combined coop. BEC &
Hurr.) 30 Jun 59 425
NORTH CAROLINA
Fort Fisher 10 Nov 31 204
Wrightsville Beach 2 Jan 34 218
Kitty Hawk, Nags Head &
Oregon Inlet 1 Mar 35 55
State of North Carolina 22 May 47 763
Carolina Beach & vicinity 10 Mar 61
53
CONG.
83
75
81
83
84
85
86
87
74
75
78
83
84
34
84
86
72
73
74
80
FEDERAL PROJECTS
RECOMMEN= AUTHORIZED
DAT ION
Unfav.
Fav.
Fav.
Unfav.
Fav.
Fav.
Fav.
Fav.
Fav.
Unfav.
Unfav.
Unfav.
Unfav.
Unfav.
Fav.
Fave
Fave
Unfav.
Fave
Fav.
Unfav.
Unfav.
Unfav.
Unfav.
Fav.
BY CONGRESS
3 Sep 54
3 Sep 54
3 Sep 54
5) Ie SS
14 Jul 60
3 Sep 54
SE JUS
Spl s'S
3 Jul 58
14 Jul 60
BEB
REPORT PUBLISHED IN
LOCATION COMPLETED H. DOC. CONG.
OHIO
Erie County - Vic. of Huron 26 Aug 41 220 79
Michigan Line to Marblehead 30 Oct 44 177 79
Cities of Cleveland &
Lakewood 22 Mar 48 502 81
Chagrin River to Fairport 22 Nov 49 596 81
Vermilion to Sheffield
Lake Village 24 Jul 50 229 83
Fairport to Ashtabula 1 Aug 51 351 82
Ashtabula to Penna.St.Line 1 Aug 51 350 82
Sandusky to Vermilion OC snk S24 3} 83
Sandusky Bay 31 Oct 52 126 83
Sheffield Lake V. to
Rocky R. SI OGteo2 ease) 83
Euclid to Chagrin River 25 Jun 53 324 83
Michigan Line to Marblehead 14 Jun 60 63 87
(Review)
Sheffield Lake Community 13 Jun 61
Park PENNSYLVANIA
Presque Isle Peninsula, Erie
(Interim) 3 Apr 42
(Final) 23 Apr 52 23 83
(Review) 21 Jan 60 397 86
PUERTO RICO
Punta Las Marias, San Juan 5 Aug 47 769 80
RHODE ISLAND
South Shore
(Towns of Narragansett,
South Kingstown, Charles-
town & Westerly) 4 Dec 48 490 81
South Kingstown & Westerly 27 Jan 58 30 86
SOUTH CAROLINA
Folly Beach 31 Jan 35 156 74
Pawleys Is., Edisto Beach
& Hunting Island 24 Jul 51
54
FEDERAL PROJECTS
RECOMMEN- AUTHORIZED
DATION
Unfav.
Unfav.
Fav.
Unfav.
Fav.
Unfav.
Unfav.
Unfav.
Unfav.
Unfav.
Unfav.
Fav.
Fav.
Fav.
Fav.
Unfav.
Fav.
Fav.
Unfav.
Unfav.
BY CONGRESS
3 Sep 54
3 Sep 54
3 Sep 54
14 Jul 60
BEB FEDERAL PROJECTS
REPORT PUBLISHED IN RECOMMEN- AUTHORIZED
LOCATION COMPLETED H. DOC. CONG. DATION BY CONGRESS
TEXAS
Galveston (Gulf Shore) 10 May 34 400 73 Unfav.
Galveston Bay, Harris County 31 Jul 34 74 74 Unfav.
Galveston (Gulf Shore) 5 Feb 53 218 83 Unfav.
Galveston (Bay Shore) 19 Jun 53 346 83 Unfav.
Bolivar Peninsula (Gulf
Shore & Rollover Fish Pass) 8 Jun 59 286 86 Unfav.
VIRGINIA
Willoughby Spit, Norfolk 20 Nov 37 482 75 Unfav.
Colonial Beach, Potomac R. 24 Jan 49 333 81 Fav. 17 May 50
Virginia Beach 25 Jun 52 186 83 Fav. 3 Sep 54
Virginia Beach (Review) 13 Jun 61 Fav.
WISCONSIN
Milwaukee County 21 May 45 526 79 Unfav.
Racine County 5 Mar 52 88 83 Unfav.
Kenosha 16 Sep 54 273 84 Unfav.
Manitowoc County 15 Apr 55 348 84 Fav. Seuss
55
CURRENTLY AUTHORIZED COOPERATIVE BEACH EROSION STUDIES
CALIFORNIA
STATB OF CALIFORNIA, Cooperating Agency: Department of Water Resources,
State of California,
Problem: To conduct a study of the problems of beach erosion and
Shore protection along the entire coast of California,
The current studies covér the Orange County Shore north
of Newport Bay Harbor, Pt, Delgada to Pt. Ano Nuevo, and
a review for the entire area from Point Conception to
the Mexican Boundary,
FLOR IDA
VIRGINIA AND BISCAYNE KEYS, Cooperating Agency: City of Miami,
Problem: To determine the best method of preventing further
eroSion and maintaining such sand aS now exists along
the City and County-owned frontages on the easterly
side of Virginia and Biscayne Keys.
BROWARD COUNTY. Cooperating Agency: Board of County Commissioners,
Broward County.
Problem: To determine the best method of restoring eroded reaches
of beach, and of maintaining the restored reaches and such
other reaches as are now in good condition,
BAKER*S HAULOVER =-MIAMI BEACH, Cooperating Agency: Office of the County
Manager, Dade County.
Problem: To review the report of the 1945 cooperative study of
Baker*s Haulover Inlet (H, Doc. 527/79/2) and in light of
additional data and new conditions determine what modi-
fications in recommendations are appropriate insofar as
beach stabilization and Federal participation are con-
cerned, and to determine best method of restoring and
stabilizing the beach between Dade County-Broward County
line and Government Cut at Miami Beach,
FORT PIERCE, Cooperating Agency: Fort Pierce Beach Erosion District.
Problem: To determine the best method of restoring and maintaining
the eroded section of beach immediately south of the ocean
entrance to Fort Pierce Harbor, The problem area extends
from the inlet south about 3 miles,
56
HAWATTI
WAIKIKI BEACH, Cooperating Agency: Department of Public Works, State
of Hawaii.
Problem: To restudy the problem at Waikiki Beach (previously studied
and reported on in H, Doc 227/83/1) and determine the best
method of preserving and maintaining the beach and counter-
acting the eroding effects of waves and littoral drift,
effectiveness of the completed portions of the existing
project, and what modifications, if any, are desirable,
HALEIWA BEACH, Cooperating Agency: Board of Harbor Commissioners, State
of Hawaii,
Problem: To determine the best method of preserving or restoring
and maintaining the beach and counteracting the eroding
effects of waves and littoral currents,
ILLINOIS
EVANSTON, Cooperating Agency: Office of the City Manager, City of
Evanston,
Problem: To determine the best method of restoring and improving
the beaches at South Boulevard and Grosse Point (Light-
house) Park to provide public bathing beaches and to
protect the upland property against erosion,
MAINE
HILLS BEACH, BIDDEFORD, Cooperating Agency: City of Biddeford.
Problem: To determine the best method of restoration of protective
and recreational beaches and protection of shore property,
MASSACHUSETTS
NEW BEDFORD, Cooperating Agency: City of New Bedford,
Problem: To determine the best method of restoring and stabil-
izing the public beaches to protect the boulevard and
provide public bathing area,
FALMOUTH. Cooperating Agency: Division of Waterways, MasSachusetts
Department of Public Works,
Problem: To determine the best method of reStoring and stabiliz-
ing beaches and stabilizing bluff areas along the Shore
of the town between Nobska Point and the east town line,
ROCKPORT, Cooperating Agency: Division of Waterways, Massachusetts
Department of Public Works,
Problem: To determine the best method of restoring the beach and
protecting the beach and cottage development,
Sil
SALISBURY BEACH, Cooperating Agency: Division of Waterways, Massachusetts
Department of Public Works.
Problem: To determine the best method of restoring and protecting
the beach and protecting the beach development,
MARTHA*’S VINBYARD. Cooperating Agency: Division of Waterways, Massachu-
setts Department of Public Works.
Problem: To determine the best methods of restoring and stabilizing
beaches and bluffs on the island of Martha*s Vineyard
between East Chop and the entrance to Edgartown Harbor.
NEW_ JERSEY
STATE OF NEW JERSEY, Cooperating Agency: Department of Conservation and
Econémic Development,
Problem: To determine the best method of preventing further erosion
and stabilizing and restoring the beaches, to recommend
remedial measures, and to formulate a comprehensive plan
for beach preservation or coastal protection. Current
studies cover the shore from South Amboy to Shrewsbury
River in Raritan and Sandy Hook Bays,
ATLANTIC CITY. Cooperating Agency: City of Atlantic City.
Problem: To determine the effect of Public Law 826, 84th Congress
on the existing authorized project for beach erosion
control,
PERTH AMBOY, Cooperating Agency: New Jersey Department of Conservation
and Economic Development,
Problem: To determine the best method of restoring adequate
recreational and protective beaches and providing con-
tinued stability to the shores within the area Second
Street to Fayette Street,
NEW YORK
ATLANTIC COAST OF LONG ISLAND BETWEEN JONES INLET AND NORTON POINT, AND
STATEN ISLAND, Cooperating Agency: Long Island State Park
Commission, and New York State Department of Public Works,
Problem: To determine the best method of restoring adequate recrea-
tional and protective beaches and providing continued
stability to the shores of Nassau County between Jones
Inlet and Bast Rockaway Inlet, the shores of New York City
between East Rockaway Inlet and Norton Point, and the
shores of Staten Island between Fort Wadsworth and Arthur
Kill,
58
FIRE ISLAND INLET TO JONES INLET, Cooperating Agency:
Long Island State
Park Commission,
Problem: To review the existing project with particular regard to
a sand bypass plant which would substitute continuous
dredging in place of periodic dredging at 5-year intervals
as presently authorized and prevent westward drifting sand
from accumulating in Shoals in Fire Island Inlet and thereby
depriving this supply from public beaches to the west during
the 5-year dredging intervals,
NORTH CAROLINA
OCRACOKE ISLAND, Cooperating Agency: Department of Water Resources, State
of North Carolina,
Problem: To determine the best method of protecting the ocean and
Pamlico Sound shores of the iSland against erosion by
waves and currents, and providing protection to State
highway and other property.
FORT MACON = ATLANTIC BEACH, Cooperating Agency: Department of Water
Resources, State of North Carolina,
Problem: To develop permanent Solutions to halt eroSion and protect
resort improvements at Atlantic Beach and protect park
facilities and historic Fort Macon,
OCRACOKE INLET TO CAPE LOOKOUT, Cooperating Agency: Department of Water
Resources, State of North Carolina,
Problem: To determine the most economical method of restoring the
barrier beach islands to suitable sections and stabilizing
the ocean shore of the islands,
PUERTO RICO
PT, SALINAS TO PT, VACIA TALEGA (SAN JUAN), Cooperating Agency:
Department of Public Works, Commonwealth of Puerto Rico,
Problem: To determine most practical and economical method of
preventing further eroSion of the shore and stabiliz-
ing or restoring the beach, especially aimed to pro-
tect exiSting upland properties and future recreational,
industrial or residential development areas,
RHODE ISLAND
NEWPORT, Cooperating Agency: Department of Public Works, State of
Rhode Island,
Problem: To determine the best method of preventing shore, bluff
and cliff erosion and protecting and maintaining Cliff
Walk between the west end of Newport Beach and the east
end of Bailey Beach,
59
SOUTH CAROLINA
HUNTING ISLAND. Cooperating Agency; State Highway Department of South
Carolina,
Problem: To determine the best method of arresting erosion and
stabilizing the beach at Hunting Island Beach,
60
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